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Travel

A Perfect Day in Nicosia

written by Brenna Holeman March 30, 2015

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As much as I love travelling and as much as I love learning about the countries of the world, there’s a lot I don’t know. Often the only thing I know about a certain place is that there’s something tugging me there, and that, for whatever reason, my wanderlust has been piqued. Cyprus was one of those countries. And while I knew that it is famous for its beach holidays, I was so excited to spend most of my time there exploring the capital city of Nicosia and its surrounding hills.

If you find yourself heading to Cyprus, I definitely recommend checking out Nicosia. Full of history, culture, and great food, it’s the kind of place you could easily spend a week or two. If you only have one day, however, here are the spots I recommend.

Please note: getting around Nicosia is very easy, with most things listed here within walking distance or a very short and cheap taxi ride away. The links will take you to sites with more information about each place, including its address. 

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One of the best things to do in Nicosia is to take the elevator to the top of the Shacolas Tower Museum and Observatory, found on Ledra Street (and sometimes called the Ledra Street Observatory). From here, you have a 360 degree view of the city. It also acts as a museum, so you can get a sense of Nicosia’s history and some of the recent political struggles it’s been through. Not only will you get some amazing shots of the city, you can also orient yourself accordingly, so I recommend heading here early to get a lay of the land.

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One of my favourite museums in Nicosia is the Byzantine Museum. I’m a huge fan of religious iconography, and here you’ll see some of the most beautiful and historically important mosaics of Cyprus. Some of the pieces have been retrieved after looting and vandalism, so it makes it all the more special to see these ancient relics, some of which date back to the 12th century. No photography is allowed, but I promise you it is spectacular!

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Directly beside the museum and adjoining the Archbishop’s Palace is St. John Cathedral, which is a jaw-dropping example of religious iconography. It’s quite small, but the ornate gold work is absolutely stunning. Please note that you must wear clothing that covers your knees here, so choose trousers or a long skirt for the day.

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I’ve never been much of a breakfast person, so I prefer to grab a quick bite at the hotel or hostel and then head off exploring. I recommend working up an appetite while sightseeing to prepare for a big lunch at The Market Company, a relatively new restaurant in the old city. The food here is the perfect blend of traditional Cypriot flavours with a modern twist. I can’t recommend their halloumi dish enough; I still dream about that salty cheese with sweet figs.

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After lunch, I recommend walking to the Zampelas Art Museum. I’ve already written extensively about it here, and I think it is well worth a couple of hours of your time. Featuring almost exclusively modern Cypriot art, it’s a wonderful way to see how Cypriot culture is changing and expanding. Try to catch the owner, Michael Zampelas, for a chat; he’s full of stories and a huge advocate of the arts.

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Cyprus has a vibrant coffee culture, so no visit to Nicosia is complete without a stop in a traditional café. Head to Onasagorou Street and choose any of the places under the vines; they will all serve up the perfect Turkish coffee, strong and thick. If the weather is nice, which is usually is, sit outside and spend a bit of time people-watching and/or indulging in a hookah. You’ll also find a lot of little souvenir shops around here, and there’s also good shopping along Ledra Street, a pedestrian street.

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One of my favourite experiences in Nicosia was the fabulous Hamam Omerye. Go here for a long steam in one of the most beautiful hamams in Cyprus, and follow it up with a massage in one of their private cabanas. I’ve been to a few hamams throughout my travels and this is definitely one of the best.

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Dinner at Chronoperpatimata 

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For a beautifully traditional dinner, head to Chronoperpatimata in the old part of town. It’s very accessible either by foot or by taxi, and the food here is both delicious and hearty. Another great place to eat is Piatsa Gourounaki; it serves up a terrific grilled mezze. If you’re eating outside, expect a few cats to join you for your meal!

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Finally, head deep into the old town for bottles of ouzo and see where the night takes you. The streets are absolutely teeming with people – Cyprus is an incredibly social country and so you’re likely to start chatting to the table next to you. There are tons of places to drink and enjoy the nightlife; in most, the Keo beer is cold, the service is great, and the ouzo (and the laughter) never stops flowing.

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On a night out in Nicosia

Getting to Nicosia is incredibly easy from other parts of Europe; the peak season is summer, but if you go during other months (I went in October and the weather was divine) you can get flights from London for under £100. From London to Larnaca Airport takes about 4.5 hours. 

Many thanks to the Cyprus Tourism Organisation for hosting my stay in Nicosia. 

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So there you go, that’s my perfect day in Nicosia. Have you been to Nicosia? If not, does it seem like a city you’d like to visit?

 

ArtCyprusEurope
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Brenna Holeman

Brenna Holeman has travelled to over 100 countries in the past 15 years, many of them solo. She's a big fan of whisky and window seats.

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15 comments

Lissa March 31, 2015 - 4:08 am

Hi, Brenna. It looks like you’ve traveled a long way from Canada. Cypress seems like a whole different world. I’m most impressed with your photography. Nicosia has some amazing museums and great food. The kebabs looked amazing and so did the pomegranates. Thank you for your post. Nicosia is definitely on my bucket list.

Reply
Brenna Holeman March 31, 2015 - 12:42 pm

I flew there from London, so it wasn’t too bad! Thank you for your comment, I hope you get to Nicosia soon!

Reply
Andrea Anastasiou March 31, 2015 - 9:57 am

Great rundown, Brenna. One place I’d definitely add to this is the Center of Visual Arts & Research. It depicts Cyprus throughout the years through the eyes of visiting artists. I think it only opened late last year. It has some very well put together galleries, and our tour guide was really helpful.

Reply
Brenna Holeman March 31, 2015 - 12:43 pm

Great, thank you so much for this tip! I went to a few more galleries and museums during my stay there but this was just a run-down of my favourites. I will have to go back so that I can see even more!

Reply
Ashley March 31, 2015 - 3:36 pm

Lovely photos! I’m intrigued by Cyprus, and the food alone seems reason enough to visit!

Reply
Brenna Holeman March 31, 2015 - 5:32 pm

The food really is reason enough to visit! Nicosia was home to some of my favourite meals I’ve had while travelling…

Reply
Scarlett March 31, 2015 - 7:58 pm

Nicosia looks amazing! I didn’t get a chance to go when I visited Cyprus. I can tell you though that the countryside, the Troodos Mountains and the beaches and small beach towns (like Polis and Pomos)are all very beautiful. The Tombs of the Kings are especially great! Did you get a chance to explore anything else of Cyprus?

Reply
Brenna Holeman March 31, 2015 - 8:10 pm

I didn’t see any of the beaches but I went to the Troodos Mountains and they were beautiful! I’m going to write another post about that experience. Thanks for your input, Scarlett!

Reply
Camille April 1, 2015 - 1:09 am

I’ve never been to Nicosia but I’m certainly interested in going. Then again, there are few places I’m not keen to go to! It seems like the perfect representation of a Mediterranean city with lots of charm.

I really like these types of posts. I hope to see more guides from you soon!

Reply
Brenna Holeman April 1, 2015 - 1:59 am

Thank you so much, Camille! I feel the same way – there are few places I DON’T want to see. I don’t often do these kinds of guides but they are quite fun to write, and I know that they’re often a lot more helpful than some of my rambling posts, ha ha!

Reply
Shikha (whywasteannualleave) April 6, 2015 - 5:00 pm

I’ve never been to Cyprus but mainly hear a lot about the beaches and resorts so it’s great to see a totally different side to it and get a feel for what Nicosia is like. Sounds like a lovely place and those foods and flavours sound right up my street. Never thought to pair figs with halloumi but I imagine that’s delicious!

Reply
Brenna Holeman April 7, 2015 - 10:51 am

Thank for your comment, Shikha! Figs and halloumi are indeed amazing together. I hope you get to visit Cyprus soon!

Reply
Zalie April 21, 2015 - 3:08 am

I really regret not going to Cyprus when I lived closer! Maybe you’ll have you to go back with me one day, it looks like an amazing place!

Reply
Brenna Holeman April 26, 2015 - 3:54 pm

Yes, I think that’s a good plan!!

Reply
Amy May 1, 2015 - 6:30 pm

I love this, your day looks amazing! I’m going to be in Nicosia for a day myself in July, and I was wondering if you could say more about how the hamam works? I’d love to go but I’ll be on my own and I’m not sure how awkward I’d feel! Very much looking forward to visiting the city after reading all this though!

Reply

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About Me

About Me

Hi, I'm Brenna

My name is Brenna Holeman and I drink a lot of whisky. No, wait. That’s not how I want to start. After travelling to more than 100 countries over the past 15 years, many of them solo, I tend to write about travel a lot, but I write about other things, too: getting dumped, buying way too much jewellery, and yeah, OK, whisky (none of those things are related, I swear). You’ll find a mix of advice, opinion pieces, and stories on this blog, but either way, I hope to make you want to read more. And up next? I'm about to become a single mom to a beautiful baby boy, the biggest solo adventure I've ever been on. For more about me and what you'll find on This Battered Suitcase, click here .

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Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life." - Jack Kerouac

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This Battered Suitcase is not only about the where and the how of travel, it's about the who and the why.

Originally from Canada, all I've ever wanted to do is travel. After eleven years of solo travel and over 90 countries, I'm currently living in London and fulfilling my other dream of becoming a writer. If I'm not travelling, I'm writing about it, either for my blog, my job, or my book. I firmly believe there is adventure everywhere, so long as you keep your eyes (and your mind, and your heart) open. Join me as I continue to look for these adventures. Hopefully you'll find your own, too.

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