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Travel

The Music of Basilicata

written by Brenna Holeman September 2, 2014

Music of Basilicata 1

 

https://www.thisbatteredsuitcase.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/New-Recording-26.m4a

 

Amid the chaos – the sawing of the huge tree on the ground, the hoards of people in white, the passerbys with their jugs of communal wine and baskets of fresh bread for the taking – a man’s voice rang out. It was aching, full of passion. Even without speaking Italian I knew that it was a love song, a song for one that was no longer by his side.

 

https://www.thisbatteredsuitcase.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/New-Recording-19.m4a

 

I was in the countryside of Basilicata, near Accettura, where the famous Festival of the Marriage of the Trees takes place every summer. Dating back centuries, this festival celebrates the area’s pagan roots. High up above the town, in the forested hills, a large oak tree is cut down; this tree symbolises the groom. Waiting in Accettura is the bride, another tree, although this one is smaller and younger. Men from the region choose the groom before the festival, and, on the day, chop it down and carry it miles through the country to reach its bride.

The festival itself is a sight to behold; everyone was in good spirits, and most were drunk well before lunch. What captivated me most, however, was the music that seemed to echo through the forest from all sides, these songs full of such sorrow and heartache.

When we stopped for a picnic lunch after a long walk (though surely not as long as the chosen carriers of the tree), we sat close to a few old men who would regularly break out into song. As we drank the wine some friendly neighbours had given us – the Italians here loved to ply us with homemade wine, cheese, and fresh fruit, much to our appreciation – the men sang together with an accordion. When they stopped, a few young boys picked up where they left off, proving that tradition remains strong here, passed from generation to generation. Another instrument (which I believe to be a traditional zampogna, although this might not be correct) accompanied the men as they sang, too.

 

https://www.thisbatteredsuitcase.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/New-Recording-22.m4a

 

Music of Basilicata 2

Music of Basilicata 3

I asked the men if I could record them, and in broken English they assured me it was no problem; they even posed for a few photos with me, and one told me how he had once, many years ago, lived in Birmingham. And while there were so many incredible experiences that day, and on that trip to Basilicata, it was the music that remained with me, and that I think of often.

 

https://www.thisbatteredsuitcase.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/New-Recording-25.m4a

 

“This is a song about loving a woman,” our translator told me, as the old men broke into song again. “But they cannot have her, not yet.”

 

Many thanks to Discover Basilicata for this amazing opportunity. I highly recommend a visit to the region!

 

EuropeFestivalsItalyMusic
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Brenna Holeman

Brenna Holeman has travelled to over 100 countries in the past 13 years, many of them solo. She's a big fan of whisky and window seats.

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7 comments

Laura September 3, 2014 - 6:08 am

These little moments with the locals are always the best experiences. The music is lovely, thanks for sharing. All of your posts about Basilicata make me want to get over there, keep them coming!

Reply
Brenna Holeman September 3, 2014 - 5:02 pm

Awesome – I really hope you get to visit! It’s amazing, I can’t wait to go back.

Reply
Ed September 3, 2014 - 9:53 am

Haha, great recordings!

Yet again, you ‘pulled!’

Reply
Brenna Holeman September 3, 2014 - 5:02 pm

Uhhhh “yet again”? What does that mean Rexy?!

Reply
Zalie September 3, 2014 - 11:10 pm

What an honour that you were able to attend this beautiful and unique festival! I love the music!

Reply
Brenna Holeman September 4, 2014 - 5:02 am

I know! It was so amazing. I want you to go to Italy…

Reply
Where To Travel in 2015 - This Battered Suitcase January 13, 2015 - 1:07 am

[…] looking for absolutely stunning scenery, quiet cobblestone streets, delicious food, and long-lasting traditions, you’ll find it all in Basilicata. The city of Matera was especially […]

Reply

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About Me

About Me

Hi, I'm Brenna

My name is Brenna Holeman and I drink a lot of whisky. No, wait. That’s not how I want to start. After travelling to more than 100 countries over the past 15 years, many of them solo, I tend to write about travel a lot, but I write about other things, too: getting dumped, buying way too much jewellery, and yeah, OK, whisky (none of those things are related, I swear). You’ll find a mix of advice, opinion pieces, and stories on this blog, but either way, I hope to make you want to read more. For more about me and what you'll find on This Battered Suitcase, click here .

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