Wednesday, 22 May 2013

The Best Restaurants in Tel Aviv


I wasn't lying when I said that all I did in Israel was eat and drink. The food there was phenomenal - full of flavour and consistently delicious. One of the things I loved the most about the food was the sharing aspect, as well as the multiple little plates of hummus or labanah or olives; I'd much prefer to eat that way, sampling many dishes, as opposed to having one large dish to myself. Here, then are some of the best restaurants I visited while in Tel Aviv. 

Sus Etz: This place, found right on Shenkin Street (famous for shopping and people-watching), was always buzzing. I had the salmon and cream cheese bagel accompanied by fresh mint tea (as seen in the photo above) on my very first day in Israel, and the meal didn't disappoint. My sister's fried haloumi salad was also very tasty.


Cafe Tachtit: Honestly, my perfect breakfast. This place, located on Lincoln Street, is a nice cafe for good coffee or a meal. The full Israeli breakfast, however, was exactly what I was looking for: eggs, tomato and cucumber salad with cheese, fresh bread, labanah (my favourite food discovery of Israel), sun-dried tomato paste, tzatziki, tuna, and a cappuccino and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Amazing.



The Old Man and The Sea: This place is somewhat of an institution in the Arab quarter of Yafo. Immediately upon sitting down we were given a variety of salads and dips to dive into, and whenever you finished a dish it was immediately replaced. The chicken and fish were also worth the visit, but seeing all of the servers in action (at the end of the meal they are magically able to stack every single dish and cup so that they only need to make one trip to clean the table, I was mesmerized) is also a fun part of the experience. 


The Kiosk: I actually don't know what the name of this place is, we just called it the kiosk (as it really is just that). Located on the corner of Rothschild and Balfour, it served some great salads and iced coffees. There are tons of kiosks like it around the city, mostly serving quick meals or fresh fruit juices. They're a fun place to hang out and people-watch, and the dishes are all pretty cheap. 


Orna and Ella: Also on Shenkin, this restaurant was packed when we visited on a Friday morning. The salads are really good, but the yam pancakes with sour cream were addictive. Apparently they also serve a wonderful Israeli breakfast, but we were too late to try it...go early!



Misadat Achim: Found on Ibn Givrol, I visited this place for a quick lunch. Known for its skewers, I actually went for the fish cakes in a spicy tomato sauce, which were delicious (I'm running out of synonyms for delicious, I know). They also had amazing dips and pita as starters, as well as a pitcher of iced tea for that hot spring/summer day. 



Brasserie: Found on Ibn Gabirol, we headed over to this extremely popular place for one of their famous burgers. It was so packed we could only get a place at the bar, but no matter -  we had spent the afternoon drinking at Malki Bar, across the square, and were famished. While it wasn't the best burger I've ever had in my life, it certainly hit the spot! The atmosphere was wonderful, too, or perhaps that was just because I was drunk at 4pm. 



The Beach: Somewhere in between suntanning, swimming in the Mediterranean, and playing matkot, you might get a little bit hungry. Instead of sitting at one of the ridiculously expensive cafes on the beach, head to a sandwich/bagel/toast stand back on the main street. You can choose a ton of toppings and have the bagel toasted for about $6. It's filling, tasty, and infinitely cheaper than any meal you'll find if you want to sit in one of the chairs on the sand. 


Laila Mourad: This tapas bar, found on Herzel, makes its way onto this list for atmosphere and service more than anything else. The tapas were tasty - the roasted artichoke, ceviche, and labanah all stand out in my mind - but I mostly enjoyed the liveliness and friendliness of the staff. We were given shot after shot of arak, and stumbled out of there happy and full. 

Tapas Achad Haam: While the tapas at Laila Mourad were very good, the tapas at Ahad Haam, found on Ahad Haam (go figure), were stellar. I ate so much that I felt sick, but I just couldn't stop. The restaurant was jam-packed with people laughing, eating, and drinking through the night, and the servers were all in on the fun (even doing a few tequila shots with us). We ate tuna tartar and crispy shrimp, seafood paella and steak, and about a dozen other dishes that have all blurred into one delicious memory. It was all to die for, as were the margaritas we washed it all down with. While it's expensive, it is worth it for the amazing atmosphere and mouthwatering food.

Cafe Noir: Also located on Ahad Haam, we had an excellent dinner here one night. We started with the beef carpaccio and roasted aubergine, and then I had the grilled chicken with olives and tomatoes. Again, we were totally stuffed, but the food and, once again, the service, were impeccable. While you might want to go to Tapas Achad Haam to party, go to Cafe Noir for a romantic night out. 

Nanuchka: Found on Lilenblum Street, this place is apparently great for Eastern European food. Although we only went for a drink, I could tell that the restaurant/bar was a really fun one, packed full of people. It's one of my sister's favourite bars in the city, and definitely worth a visit if you fancy a late night meal or after-dinner drink. 

Malki: As mentioned before, Malki is a cute little bar that also serves up some great snacks. Their orange mojitos are truly works of art. 

Shesek: I would be remiss if I didn't mention this bar, even though it doesn't serve food. Also found on Lilenblum street, I ended up visiting four times (this may or may not have to do with the fact that my sister's boyfriend's brother owns this bar). It is the kind of place that's right up my alley - great service, lots of places to sit, good music, and a fun and raucous crowd that keeps the bar open well into the wee hours. Definitely check this place out when you're on a night on the town. 

Have you ever been to Tel Aviv? Which restaurants can you recommend?

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Monday, 20 May 2013

How to Prepare to Go Home After Travelling


Cali, Colombia

There are dozens of resources out there that can help you prepare for an impending holiday, whether a quick vacation or a much longer trip. If you are organized, the night before you leave can (hopefully) be a relaxing one. But what about at the end of your holiday? What should you do before you go home?

I thought of this while planning to leave Tel Aviv. Leaving a place isn’t as simple as just packing everything up and heading to the airport. Here, then, are some of the steps I personally take in order to prepare for the journey home*.

1. Check your flight/bus/train departure time, and check again. Get it ingrained. My flight back to London from Tel Aviv was at 8:20pm, and so, a few days before I left, I made sure to check how long it would take on a Saturday to get to the aiport.

2. Find out how you can get to the airport/bus station/train station. It might be as simple as walking, or it might be a journey including multiple trains and buses that takes a few hours (I’m looking at you, London Luton). Find out exactly how much it will cost, how long it will take, and how easily you are able to book it. An early morning taxi, for example, might need to be booked the night before. All of this information is usually readily available online, but I ask locals or information attendants whenever necessary.

3. Calculate how much money you will need to adequately pay your final hotel/hostel bill (if they don't accept cards) and get yourself to the airport. You might want to have a bit of change left over to buy water or last minute purchases. Keep in mind many countries also charge to use the toilet in bus and train stations, so have a few coins set aside for that.

4. When packing up your things, pack logically. Put gifts or other souvenirs either on top or in easy to reach locations – customs might want to see them when you arrive home. Also make sure that you are not bringing anything you shouldn’t be (check for that wayward apple you threw in your backpack, for example).

5. Make sure that all of your important documents are easily accessible; this includes your passport, boarding pass (if you printed it beforehand), and anything you may have been given by a customs agent when you first landed. Some countries, especially in Central and South America, give you an arrival and departure card when you first enter the country. Make sure you keep that piece of paper somewhere safe – I generally keep it inside my passport.

6. Before you leave the room where you stayed, do a thorough sweep to make sure you haven’t left anything behind. Make sure to check under the bed, in the closet, in the bathroom, and in the drawers (even if you swear you never put anything inside of them). Watch out for leaving chargers behind; they’re easy to leave plugged into the wall. 

7. On your way to the airport or station, mentally prepare for going through customs and immigration. I've written an extensive article on this before. 

8. Make sure you've gotten all of the contact details for those amazing people you met. You never know - you might be in the same place at the same time in the future! And, if once you return, you feel a little bit bummed - give this a read




Saying Goodbye to the Irishman in Cali, Colombia


*Home, or wherever the journey takes you next

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Sunday, 19 May 2013

A Trip To China


Beijing, China

I was bored on my flight from Tel Aviv to London last night so I made this video with clips I took while I was in China, almost three years ago (!). All videos were taken with my Harinezumi camera, and are accompanied by the ever lovely Yo La Tengo.

For more videos like this, please click here or here


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Friday, 17 May 2013

When Plans Change, Or, Why I'm Not Going To Jordan






Tel Aviv, Israel

I've been in Israel for ten days now. It's my 80th country. Originally I was going to spend only eight days here, and then head south to Aqaba to dive in the Red Sea, and then go to Petra, and then fly out of Amman. I was going to do all of that in four days.

And then a funny little thing happened. Well, no, it's not that funny at all - it's entirely predictable and logistical. I decided to stay in Israel, to simply stay in Tel Aviv. I've made this mistake a few times, planning to go somewhere and then realizing that I do not have the time, the energy, or the money to go to each and every place I set out to visit. As I said when I cancelled my plans to visit El Salvador, it just doesn't make sense for me at the moment. Three months from now, I'll be living in London and able to fly to Jordan quite easily, able to fly when I have a bit more time to spend in the country and perhaps even a travel partner to spend it with. 

The main reason I'm not going to Jordan, however, is an even simpler one: I want to stay in Tel Aviv and be with my sister. She lives here with her boyfriend, Tom, and the entire reason for this visit to the Middle East was to see them. We've been having such good time here: partying with their friends, visiting local museums, shopping, relaxing on the beach, and, of course, indulging in far too much food and drink. 

As I've gotten older and as I've travelled more, I see how my priorities change when I'm on the road. When I first travelled solo through Europe over seven years ago, I was a blur of movement, switching cities and countries more frequently than some travellers change their socks. Over the years, however, I've slowed down considerably, preferring to stay in one place and get to know that place well rather than zip through to simply check a place off of a list. I found a few places like that through Asia and South America (Hoi AnKoh Tao, Pai, The Perhentians, Kathmandu, Antigua, Utila, Granada, Taganga, SucreBuenos Aires, to name a few) and now I've added Tel Aviv to that list. 

I won't lie - most of my time here has been spent sitting on my bum with either a coffee or a drink in hand. And, wouldn't you know it, it's been the best time ever. 

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Monday, 13 May 2013

Boiling Eggs in Chiang Rai






Chiang Rai, Thailand

Very often you encounter some bizarre things when travelling. Once in a while one of those things makes perfect sense.


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Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Another (Another Another) Year Older



Clockwise from top left: Rio de Janiero, Brazil; Bocas del Toro, Panama; Cali, Colombia; Machu Picchu, Peru; Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia; Winnipeg, Canada; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Flying Over Belize; middle photo, Flores, Guatemala. 

It was my birthday over the weekend; I haven't written in over a week, because it's been such a crazy one. There was so much laughter and friendship and family and eating and drinking and celebrating that it's hard for me to even remember everything, to remember all the wonderful details of the past seven days. 

And, in some ways, that's how I feel about the entire past year of my life: I thought that the years before, spent mostly in Asia, were some of the best of my life, but this past year, spent mostly in Central and South America, was also incredible. Topped off with a month in London, a week in Rome, and now a visit to Israel, 28 was just as unbelievable as 27 and 26. 

I saw a lot, Machu Picchu and the Galapagos, Tikal and the Panama Canal, the big cities of Rio, Buenos Aires, Santiago. I visited Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Canada, America, England, and Italy. I had a horrible accident, one that I survived but am still recovering from. I spent time with my family, though it was never enough. I learned how to make chocolate and tamales, how to speak Spanish, how to be a rescue diver, so many things. I tried some of the best food in the world, drank some of the best wine in the world. I took thousands of photos. I had my heart broken a few times (or perhaps just slightly cracked), or maybe it was me who broke hearts, I'm not so sure. I solidified some of my best friendships, and I made new ones, ones that I'm sure will last a lifetime. I was accepted into my dream Master's program in my dream city. I lived a good year.

I started this next year of my life in the place I love, a place I'll be living for the next two years: London, though I'm now in Israel. I've spent the past 24 hours stuffing my face with hummus and haluomi, shopping on Shenkin, and catching up with my sister. If the past three days are going to be any indication of what 29 will bring, it's going to be an amazing year.

Thank you, as always, for letting me share all of this with you, all of these self-indulgent musings and ramblings. I started this blog as a way to record all the personal things that happen in my travels, and it's been a real treat to see that a few people have actually enjoyed following along. My year (and all these years) have been so great in part because of you and all of your support.

But now, there are palm trees swaying and falafel to be eaten, so I must dash. Toda raba, my friends.


To see what I wrote on my birthday last year in Belize, click here.
To see what I wrote on my birthday two years ago in Luang Prabang, click here


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Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Roman Red






Rome, Italy

I had been to Italy before, but never to Rome. And what I thought the city would be, it was - beautiful and ancient, full of history and religion, brimming with delicious food and cobblestoned streets to wander. Men leaned too close into my ears, telling me the stories of the city as they chain-smoked. Tourists swarmed, their numbers swelling into the hundreds of thousands at the famous monuments each day. The sun shone and the rain came, spring making way for summer. 

It was a good week, but a busy one. I walked for hours every day, stopping only for photo opportunities or for another cup of espresso. I deliberately saw more sites than I'm used to; I had grown accustomed to the lazy days of South America, the days when I knew I still had months and months to explore. And, although seeing these famous places was, as always, enlightening - the Trevi Fountain, the Sistene Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica, the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona - it was in the quiet moments that I appreciated Rome the most. It was in the purchase of a painting by a local artist on the banks of the Tiber river, or in the glasses of wine on a small street in Trastevere. It was in the gelato shared at midnight with a man I'll never see again. It was in the few times when I would turn a corner, escaping the throngs of tourists, and, for just a brief moment, I'd have the whole of Rome to myself.


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Thursday, 25 April 2013

Around the World: Dogs


Osaka, Japan


Mancora, Peru


Terelj National Park, Mongolia


Mendoza, Argentina


Pushkar, India


Colonia, Uruguay


Salento, Colombia


Punta del Diablo, Uruguay


Little Corn, Nicaragua


Hoi An, Vietnam


Kathmandu, Nepal


San Agustin, Colombia


Mirissa, Sri Lanka


Valparaiso, Chile

It's no secret that I love dogs (and all animals, for that matter). The weird thing is that they love me right back. It doesn't matter which country I'm in, I find dogs always want to jump on me, cuddle me, be near me, even follow me while I ride a bicycle*. I've always been really comfortable and happy around animals, and I find that if you treat them with love and respect, they'll treat you the same. 

I've bonded with quite a few animals in my travels, even though I know that there are serious risks to getting close to any animal, domestic or wild, especially when in certain countries. I just can't resist giving a dog a scratch behind the ear or nuzzling the top of a puppy's head, though. If I die of some sort of rabies/fleas/ringworm hybrid super-disease, I will only have myself to blame. 

I'll die happy, though. Look at those little wet noses!!!

*I'm hoping that this is because they can sense that I am a kind person, not that I always smell faintly of red meat or something weird

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Tuesday, 23 April 2013

5 Places I've Never Been (And Why I Want To Go)


Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

The lovely Oneika the Traveller recently did a post about the 5 places she's never been to and why she'd like to visit them one day. I thought this was an interesting subject; I've been to quite a few countries, but there are some places that I'm just dying to see. In no particular order, here are my top five dream destinations. Note: these change daily.

1. Kazakhstan

Ever since I completed the Trans-Siberian a few years ago, crossing through China, Mongolia, and Russia, I've been fascinated with the idea of visiting more of Central Asia. Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan...they all hold a lot of intrigue for me, as I don't know very many people who have visited as tourists. I would love to travel by train through these countries, perhaps passing over some of the former Silk Route. I've heard that the locals are extremely welcoming and friendly, and I think that a few months in this part of the world would be a highly enjoyable and educational adventure.


Salento, Colombia

2. Venezuela 

I've already visited most of South America's countries, but I would still really love to see more of that beautiful and vibrant continent. Although parts of Venezuela are quite intimidating to me, I've heard amazing things about Isla Margarita and about Angel Falls. I've only met a few travellers who ventured to Venezuela while they were in South America, but they all raved about their time there. 


The Sahara, Morocco

3. Uganda

I've been to Africa three times, twice to Morocco and once to Egypt. There is so much of Africa that I need to see in my lifetime, however, and there are at least a dozen countries that could have made this list. Right now, though, Uganda stands out the most. I have long wanted to volunteer there for a few months, but the more I've read and heard about the country, the more I'd like to spend some time exploring as well. It seems to have a lot by way of nature, and as soon as I have the money I would love to do a safari. I've also heard that the people are extremely kind. It's just one of those places that I've had on my mind for years now.


Mirissa, Sri Lanka

4. The Maldives

I will never, ever tire of beaches. I've seen photos and videos of the Maldives and it looks like heaven - turquoise water, white sand, blue skies, not to mention the amazing diving. I feel like I've been to some of the top honeymoon destinations in the world (Hawaii, Paris, Thailand, the Caribbean, etc) on my own or with a friend, so I'll admit it: I would love to go to the Maldives with a romantic partner and just swim and eat seafood and...do all those other things romantic partners do. I suppose this means that I will actually have to want to go on a date (not to mention enough dates to comfortably fly to the Maldives with someone) so this holiday might be a few years in the making. 


Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

5. Churchill, Manitoba, Canada

I have met a few travellers along the way who have said, "You're from Manitoba?! I went to Churchill!" Even though I was born and raised in the province of Manitoba, I never went far enough north to see one of our most popular and well-known spots. Whenever I return to Manitoba, I'm there to see family, not to take a holiday. I'm determined to make the journey there one day, though. Why is this little town on the Hudson Bay so important, you may ask? It's the polar bear capital of the world, of course. The amazing Northern Lights don't hurt, either. 


There you have it, the 5 places I would really like to visit one day. Honourable mentions include Georgia (the country), East Timor, a road trip of the southern states of America, Tahiti, Antarctica, Tuvalu, Cyprus, Oman, Serbia, Greenland, Micronesia, Tanzania, Bhutan, and basically every single place in the whole wide world.

Where have you never been but would like to visit? Why?

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