I hate to say what I’m about to, but…I don’t really remember that much of Bratislava. I spent only two days there, and it was regretfully my only experience of Slovakia. It was one of those places I went to purely on a whim (they are usually the best places) because I was in Vienna and discovered it was only an hour away by train. I remember the train having no glass in its windows, and a young guard with a rifle checking my passport at the border. I remember walking through the very deserted old town, following church bells. I remember climbing a hill to the castle, and looking across the city to the rows and rows of old Communist apartment blocks in the distance. I remember drinking cold Zlaty Bazant under the protection of a large umbrella on a cobblestoned street, writing furiously away in my journal about the time I spent in Austria. I suppose the most important thing is that I remember enough to know that I’d really like to go back.