This Battered Suitcase

How I Travel: A Feature on Unstitched

2012-02-16T09:04:00.000-06:00

Yesterday I was featured on Lillian's beautiful blog, Unstitched. She has a great section where she asks different bloggers how they travel (packing, travel essentials, what to wear on the plane, etc.). A big thanks to Lillian for asking me to be a part of this!

To read the feature, click here.

How To Make Friends In Nepal

2012-02-15T22:52:00.000-06:00

...or Romania, or Bolivia, or Japan…

When you ask atraveller what he or she loves most about being on the road, chances are he orshe will, at some point, mention interacting with the local people and learningabout new cultures. Most travellers are, after all, xenophiles at heart. But tothe novice traveller, or even to those who have spent years on overseasadventures, talking with local people can seem daunting or intimidating. Onecan feel like a complete outsider, nervous to approach groups of people or to makeconversation with a total stranger. Here are some surefire ways to break theice and to connect with locals in new lands.

Chatting With Kids in Sapa, Vietnam

1. Smile.

How incrediblyobvious, you may think. However, a lot of people can close themselves off whentravelling, wary of being taken advantage of or of letting down their guard.There are ways of being both a conscientious and an open-minded traveller; onedoesn't have to be mutually exclusive of the other. Smiling and being friendlyto everyone (whether abroad or not) instantly makes people respect you and wantto help you. I once went for a walk on my own through the streets of Bhaktapur,Nepal, smiling and saying hello to anyone who met my eye. Within about twentyminutes, I was sitting with a group of 15 people, hot tea in hand, learning howto knit traditional yak wool scarves and hats. If I had been closed off to thepeople around me, I would have never had this one-of-a-kind experience.

New Friends in Bhaktapur, Nepal

2. Make friends with the kids, and theadults will follow.

Children are muchmore open and forward in approaching foreigners and saying hello. Kids arenaturally curious, often eager to speak any words of English they know, to playgames, or to have their photo taken. A great way to break ground with kids isto make them laugh, so posing for a few silly pictures or joining in a game ofsoccer will instantly warm them to you. Carrying a few notebooks or pencils togive away is also a wonderful way to interact with the kids - and when kids arehappy, parents are happy.

Horsing Around in El Nido, The Philippines

3. Learn key words of the locallanguage.

It is impossibleto become fluent in every language of every country you visit, but knowing afew key words in each language can mean the difference between only being ableto interact with other English-speakers and being able to converse with andentertain local people as well. Polite words such as "thank you","please" and "hello" are give-ins, but knowing phrases suchas "how are you?", "this is delicious", and "sobeautiful" can be crucial in separating you from the travellers who neverbother to learn these simple bits of conversation. Even if you butcher thelanguage, attempting to speak a few words of Tagalog, Portuguese, or Burmese,for example, will instantly show locals that you care enough about theircountry to take the time to learn.

Butchering the Burmese Language in Yangon

4. Use home stays or couch surfing.

There aremultiple programs and websites, such as Couchsurfing, that can settravellers up with local people for a place to stay. Staying at a local's housemeans spending one-on-one time with someone who is familiar with the city, thelanguage, and the culture, so you can get a lot of information that mightotherwise not be available to you. When I was travelling across Russia via theTrans-Siberian, I stayed in home stays along the way, and I learned so muchmore about the local food, homes, and general lifestyle than I would have if Ihad only stayed in hotels. With couch surfing and home stays, you instantlyhave a friend, a teacher, a tour guide, and an insight into a local’s way oflife.

Drinking Yak's Milk in Our Mongolian Home Stay Family's Ger

5. If you do choose to stay in a hotel, doyour research.

Before booking ahotel or hostel, research whether or not it is a family-run establishment. Youcan often read reviews on, for example, Tripadvisor or Hostelworld thatwill tell you whether or not the owner was friendly and/or active in helpingyou to plan your stay. I once stayed at the excellent Lisbon Lounge Hostel in Lisbon,and the owner recommended lots of great sightseeing spots as well as organizeda dinner twice a week for patrons to get to know each other and to sample thelocal food. Staying in family-run hostels and hotels has always proven to be aninfallible way of interacting with locals and making the most of my time inforeign lands.

A Delicious Meal With New Friends in Lisbon

6. Take a class.

Whether it is aweaving class, a dance lesson, or a day's cooking event, taking classes abroadis a terrific way of connecting with the local culture and meeting someone whois knowledgeable about that subject. Developing a unique skill is also a greatway to start a conversation further down the road in your travels. For example,if you take a traditional flute lesson in Lovina, Bali, and then later see alocal playing that same type of flute in Ubud, you can instantly connect withthat person and impress him or her with your knowledge of the country’s customsand traditions. Your teacher will also be a source of wisdom for localhappenings, sights, and events.

A Cooking Class in Chiang Mai, Thailand

7. Go shopping.

When you travel,you are guaranteed to talk to the people at your hotel, servers in restaurants,and shopkeepers (at the very least). Why not make the most of theseconversations? Learning to haggle politely in marketplaces is an invaluableskill that will make the experience fun, not stressful. My mum and Iexperienced this firsthand with a man named Mohammed in Marrakesh in 2006; weplayfully bartered with him for some teapots, jewellery, and shoes, until bothparties were content with the price. Immediately after, he introduced us to hischildren and sat down with us for mint tea. Three years later, when inMarrakesh once again, my mother and I were shocked to hear our names beingcalled through the souks: Mohammed recognized us! We once again sat with himand his family for tea and snacks, and the things we bought from him that daywere not as precious to us as the hours we spent laughing and sharing storiesof our homes.

My Best Friend and Our Other Best Friend in Istanbul

8. Take photos, but ask before you do.

This is a pointthat many people shy away from, experienced travel photographers or not. We areall familiar with the sneaky photo of an interesting outfit, a cute child, or abeautiful portrait. However, if we put aside our fears, asking to take photosof people is really not that difficult, and can often lead to conversation andfriendships. Sure, some people will say no, but for the most part, people arehappy to pose for the camera. Imagine it in reverse: if someone wanted to takeyour photo, would you not take it as a compliment that the photographer foundyou interesting or beautiful? Another way of doing this is to ask to take aphoto with the person or people - you will definitely end up having aconversation, or at the very least, share a few smiles and handshakes.

All Those Beautiful Saris in India (I couldn't resist asking for a photo)

I've been asked whichcountries have the friendliest locals, and, while a few countries do instantly springto mind (Myanmar, Slovenia, Nepal, Japan), I feel that I have only had the bestof experiences in each place I've visited. This is not to say that I have neverbeen ripped off, scammed, or treated poorly, just that I've found myexperiences with people of all nationalities to be really positive; I believeit's because I follow these guidelines for making friends when travelling. Justas you may be wary of people at first, remember that those same people may bewary of you; stop, then, and take the time to start a conversation. Or at thevery least, smile. You'll be amazed at how different your travelling experiencemay turn out.

Fun With Cameras in the Himalayas

Be Mine

2012-02-14T21:37:00.000-06:00

Koh Tao, Thailand

February 14, 2011

I simply cannot believe that it was exactly a year ago that I wrote this post as I sat in an internet cafe in Thailand. I can remember so clearly waking up at 5am that day, preparing for a sunrise dive with my best friend, Kerri. The boat ride to our dive location, preparing our gear and making jokes about fishes for Valentines. I remember holding her hand underwater, swimming through schools of silver fish, practicing our buoyancy, somersaulting past beautiful coral and colourful creatures. I remember jumping off the side of the boat and laughing as we took an afternoon swim, still clothed in our restrictive wetsuits. Sharing cookies and cold tea with all the other members of my dive group, some Australians and Swedes. I remember spending the rest of the day on the beach in the hot sun, wearing a white dress, going for beers at the dive shop's bar as the sky turned orange, meeting an Austrian man that captivated my attention for that entire night. I remember cheap dinner in one of the back alleys, an alley that was covered in mud we had to wade through, splashing in puddles. Kissing under the stars. Falling asleep in a bed next to Kerri's, content and still warm from the sun, still rocking with the boat, still fluttering inside with the romance of it all, the peacefulness of it all, of it all, of it all.

Happy Valentine's Day to you and yours.

Travel Advice at FareCompare.com

2012-02-14T09:07:00.001-06:00

Kerri and I at the Airport: Bucharest, Romania

Just a quick note to link to an article I just wrote for FareCompare.com, all about carry-on essentials. I'll hopefully be writing a few more articles for them in the future; I really like their travel advice section!

If I Had $4729 To Spare

2012-02-12T19:55:00.000-06:00

Antarctica from G Adventures Culture on Vimeo.

I have been to six of the seven continents, and, like most avid travellers, one of my goals in life is to visit all seven. That leaves the elusive Antarctica. Cold, beautiful, relatively untouched - it is one of those majestic and mystical lands that I can only dream of. With an upcoming trip to Argentina, however (as part of my travels through South America this year), I can't help but push the dream of visiting Antarctica a little bit more into my realm of reality. What if, I keep thinking? What if I miraculously saved $4000 more? I have no idea how that could ever be possible (considering that is almost half of my entire budget for eight months) but, on this Sunday night in a snowy land, I'm pretending I just might have a chance.

"I'm Not A Tourist"

2012-02-11T19:31:00.000-06:00

Earth from G Adventures on Vimeo.

*Edit: read the comments for further discussion on the tourist vs. traveller ideology!

(Finally) Facebook!

2012-02-07T18:25:00.000-06:00

Hi everyone, I just started a Facebook page for my blog! Please visit the page (and like me, if, you know, you really do like me) to check out status updates, photos, and videos that may not always appear on the blog. I will also hold contests and giveaways from time to time there. I really appreciate your support!

Cheers!

Love, Brenna

(This Battered Suitcase on Facebook)

This Day vs. That Day

2012-02-06T23:33:00.003-06:00

Yogyakarta, Indonesia

This Day (February 6, 2012):

I woke up an hour earlier than I normally do on weekdays, cursing the fact that the sun hadn't even risen yet; the winters are notoriously dark and long where I currently live. Shower, make-up, put on black clothes for work. I drove through the slush and the snow to the dentist for a routine cleaning, where it was discovered that I have my first cavity ever, a tiny little thing on a back molar that instantly dampened my Monday morning mood. I had to drive home again to drop off my car, then I walked to work, where, for eight hours, I ran around, trying to get everything done, trying to always look happy and cheerful. I chatted with lots of my coworkers and made plans for the upcoming week. I met up with my dad for dinner and wine, talked to my mum on the phone, answered some emails, then finished off the night with a bath and a good book. It was a nice day, it was a typical day.

That Day (July 6, 2011):

I woke up late in the morning, as I almost always did in Southeast Asia. The sun was already beaming overhead in full force when we took a quick dip in the little hotel pool, finally getting out of the cold water to eat a breakfast of toast and eggs and strong Java coffee. After a bucket shower and dressing in my most colourful sundress, we walked through the streets of Yogyakarta, with no direction and no destination. We found street art, birds for sale, and strange fruits, temples hidden down side streets and markets full of cheap clothing. We ended up walking through a museum with walls covered in words we didn't understand, and then wandered for hours through the old walled city, stopping to drink cold tea and to play soccer with some kids. We took a cyclo home; on the way, I napped, comforted by the cool wind and the adventures of the day. That night we shared an assortment of traditional Indonesian meals at a little restaurant down the street from the hotel, staying up late drinking cheap beer from the convenience store and laughing with other travellers. We had no plans, we knew nothing of the next day, we only knew that that day was one of the best. It was a great day, it was what I wish all my days could be.

The Day I Bonded With A Goat

2012-02-02T23:56:00.000-06:00

Jodhpur, India

Is it just me, or do this goat and I have scarily similar facial expressions in each photo?

It was in India that I decided that one day I'd really like to own a goat; I stayed with this little guy for the better part of an hour. I actually have spent a lot of time with animals during my travels (that reminds me, I have to get rabies shots before I head to South America.......) - do you have any funny stories involving animals from your travels?

*Just realized this was a fitting post on Groundhog Day!

My Hometown

2012-01-30T23:35:00.000-06:00

Winnipeg, Canada

I thought that this week would be calm and quiet, but just like that - my schedule is once again full. Between dinner with my sister, writing articles for a few websites, booking a trip to Havana, Cuba in March with Rikki(where I will finally be able to cross off #49 on my Wanderlist), skyping with Kerri in South Korea, drinks and dinner with girlfriends, dancing with my coworkers on Saturday, and an open-mic night with my neighbours on Sunday, I can't believe that it is only Monday and already every single night of mine is booked up.

I am the first to admit that I was worried about living in my hometown of Winnipeg for six months; I hadn't lived here in ten years, and my memories of the city were ones of cold and dark winters, a lack of fun things to do, and very little to keep my mind engaged and my wanderlust satiated. With this six-month stay bookended by two great adventures, however, with fourteen months on the road behind me and another eight coming up in my future, I'm finding the time in Winnipeg to be so incredibly enriching and fun. I'm happy, really happy. I'm making new friends and reconnecting with old friends and laughing more than I can remember ever doing here. I love my house, I love my job, I love my family and friends, I love all of the things I do around town, be they errands or going for a night out or brunch on the weekend. I have crushes on boys and am reading great books and have started eating healthier than I ever have before. To sum it all up, I feel fucking incredible.

It's so nice to remind myself that I can feel like this when I'm not on the road. My heart will always be out there, sure, but with my flight to Guatemala most likely at the end of April, I know for a fact I will be heartbroken to leave.

A Shot In The Dark

2012-01-29T18:13:00.000-06:00

Chitwan National Park, Nepal

"Life has its ups and downs. It can be both brutal and beautiful. You can hole yourself away to avoid life's pain, but then the beauty seldom finds its way in. It's only when you attempt to go where you cannot go, or do what you cannot do, that you can achieve what you are truly capable of doing. Sure, you might tumble. You might fall. So what? Take a chance. Go way out on the limb. Dare to try - even if it's just a shot in the dark."

-On the back of tonight's wine bottle, Australia's A Shot In The Dark Shiraz Petite Sirah 2008

Hot Chocolate In The City

2012-01-26T23:21:00.002-06:00

Melbourne, Australia

I have a confession to make: I absolutely love hot chocolate. As I wrote in my last post (again, where did the time go??), I have been so busy lately. A little solace I have every night before bed is to make a cup of hot chocolate and drink it while in bed with a book. Perhaps it sounds a bit lonely, but it's these little comforts that I am enjoying so much while living in one place for a few months. These small comforts do not come easily, if at all, while on the road.

I remember arriving in Melbourne last June to see Ali, my good friend whom I hadn't seen in a year and a half - the first thing we did together was head to a local mall to shop and sample this deliciously rich and thick hot chocolate. I remember Ali treating me to the drink and to some churros, and our total bill was somewhere around 20 dollars. My eyes widened - twenty dollars (Australian, Canadian, or otherwise) would have lasted me an entire day in Cambodia, including hotel, all meals, alcohol, and perhaps even a massage or a purchase of some souvenirs. Living in Canada again at the moment, I don't flinch at a price like that anymore, of course, but it was a definite shock at the time. We sat there for a while, enjoying the sweetness of it all (the chocolate, the churros, the friendship) before heading out into the bitter cold again, satiated from the warm drink and from spending time with each other.

I'm already falling behind on things I wanted to do before leaving for Guatemala in late April - writing, guest blogging, changes with this blog, studying Spanish, etc - but of one thing I'm sure: I am going to fit in as many creature comforts as I can before heading out on the road again.

A Little More Paprika, Please

2012-01-22T22:26:00.004-06:00

Budapest, Hungary

It seems as though the days are going by in a flash - so much so, that when I went to update this blog, I was shocked to see that I last posted on Tuesday. Tuesday? That felt like only a day or so ago. With working full-time, trying to get a writing career off the ground, spending time with family and friends, and keeping a house clean and functioning, I have barely had any time to just sit down and relax.

The one thing I do find myself daydreaming about a lot is backpacking again. My first backpacking adventure was in 2006, when I went to The Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Austria, Hungary, Poland, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Estonia on my own, which was quickly followed by trips to Ireland, Spain, and Morocco with friends and family. I've had many other shorter backpacking trips since then, and took an eight-month trip through Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand, Myanmar, India, Nepal, Laos, Cambodia, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, South Korea, and Australia in 2011. Now, in 2012, I'm planning a brand new adventure: I'm moving to Guatemala in April, where I'll spend nearly two months studying Spanish almost eight hours a day. After that, I plan on visiting Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, and then hopefully Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Argentina, Chile, and possibly other countries until 2013. I hope to keep studying Spanish and also possibly become a dive master along the way. I can't believe how that one backpacking trip in 2006, the one I thought would "get the travel bug out of my system", was the start of a whole new life for me, a whole new perspective on living and shaping my future.

Sometimes it seems I've spent so much of my life living out of a suitcase or a backpack - sometimes, despite my busy and exciting days here in my hometown, it seems that I am only truly living when I'm on the road. Such is the fate of the perpetual traveller, I suppose.

Happy In Myanmar

2012-01-17T22:48:00.000-06:00

Yangon, Myanmar

We rode our rented bikes, the ones we got from down the road from our hotel, all around the city that day - hours and hours and miles and miles, with no real direction or purpose. We spotted a lake on a map and so we rode there. Along the way we stopped for snacks, we waved at schoolchildren, we bought coffee in bags and marvelled, once again, at Shwedagon Paya. When we finally got to the lake, just in time to see the sun start to set, we literally jumped up and down for joy. We met locals with ground-up bark swirled on their cheeks as protection from the sun. We borrowed a guitar and sang songs that echoed across the water. Us blondes pretended to be brunettes, and vice versa. We retraced our paths nearly all the way home, but decided to visit the same restaurant we had eaten at the night before, it was just that good. Sitting in the streets of Yangon on hard plastic chairs, dining on delicious food, drinking cold Myanmar lager, laughing and singing and making new friends, I can't remember many more times when I was so happy.

That Day In Chiang Mai

2012-01-15T23:56:00.000-06:00

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Today I spoke to my good friend Henry for quite a while on Skype (hi Henry!). We started talking about something or other, and Henry said to me, "Oh yeah, we talked about that while sitting on those rocks in...where were we?"

It took us longer than I care to admit to remember that we were sitting on some rocks beside a temple that was just outside Chiang Mai. We slowly pieced together the rest of that day: puppies, monks, feeding ducks in the pond, an amusement park, getting lost on the highway, white temples, the hot sun.

When we travel, when we see these amazing sights that take our breath away, we think we'll always remember. Sure, there are journals to write in, emails and postcards to send, and photos to take, but, as with any day of our lives, we forget certain things, forget, perhaps, the lunch we had or the name of the temple or the things we laughed about for so long. It frightens me to realize that these memories are slowly slipping away - this day spent with Henry was April 16, 2011, nine months ago, and still we questioned for a moment what country we were in when it all took place.

I can't remember it all, and I shouldn't punish myself for forgetting. I just wish that I could remember more.

My Route (September 2010 - November 2011)

2012-01-12T00:47:00.002-06:00

OSAKA - TOKYO - SEOUL - BEIJING - ULAANBAATAR - TERELJ NATIONAL PARK - ULAN UDE - IRKUTSK - LISTVYANKA - YEKATERINBURG - MOSCOW - ST. PETERSBURG - WINNIPEG - PHOENIX - HALIFAX - TORONTO - WINNIPEG - HONG KONG - MACAU - BANGKOK - PHUKET - KOH LANTA - KOH PHI PHI - BANGKOK - YANGON - BANGKOK - KOH TAO - KOH PHANGAN - KOH TAO - BANGKOK - NEW DELHI - JAISALMER - JODHPUR - UDAIPUR - PUSHKAR - JAIPUR - AGRA - VARANASI - NEW DELHI - AMRITSAR - NEW DELHI - KATHMANDU - CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK - POKHARA - THE HIMALAYAS - POKHARA - KATHMANDU - BHAKTAPUR - BANGKOK - CHIANG MAI - PAI - CHIANG RAI - LUANG PRABANG - VANG VIENG - VIENTIANE - PHONSAVAN - 4000 ISLANDS - SIEM REAP - SIHANOUKVILLE - KAMPOT - KEP - PHNOM PENH - KUALA LUMPUR - MELBOURNE - KUALA LUMPUR - SEOUL - SINGAPORE - KUALA LUMPUR - KOTA BHARU - THE PERHENTIANS - KUALA LUMPUR - YOGYAKARTA - MOUNT BROMO - LOVINA - UBUD - GILI TRAWANGAN - KUTA - WINNIPEG - MAUI - PHOENIX - LAS VEGAS - RENO - BLACK ROCK DESERT - DENVER - KANSAS CITY - LOUISVILLE - ST. LOUIS - PITTSBURGH - CAPE COD - BOSTON - NANTUCKET - QUEBEC CITY - MONTREAL - TORONTO - WINNIPEG

*only places I slept at least a night are included

** nights spent sleeping in places I do not know the name of (countrysides, campgrounds, on the beach, in the car, etc. are not included)

Seeing Japan Again

2012-01-10T22:32:00.002-06:00

My lovely friend Evelyn sent me this link, another beautiful video by Mike Matas; I loved his photography videos of Spain & Morocco and India, too. This one in particular strikes a chord as I lived in Japan for over two years and visited so many of these places. I'll say it again - why didn't I think of this?!

I Believe in (Nepali) Pink

2012-01-10T09:00:00.000-06:00

Kathmandu, Chitwan National Park, and the Himalayas, Nepal

More of last year's most prominent colour.

Time Lapse Around the World

2012-01-09T20:17:00.000-06:00

Speeding Around the World in Under Five Minutes by Kiendlam

I love beautifully-done and creative videos like this, where I can reminisce about places I've been and dream about places I haven't. It's amazing to see streets and markets and even exact bars (I LOVED Lotus bar on Koh Tao, Thailand, seen at 4:31) I visited through other people's eyes. I also always wonder - why didn't I think of that?

A Letter From My Best Friend

2012-01-09T01:31:00.001-06:00

Clockwise from top left: Full Moon Parties on Koh Phangan - Getting Lost in Japan - Beers in Bangkok - Mirrored Images in Myanmar - The Third Wheel in Romania - Protective Headgear in South Korea - Dancing the Night Away on Koh Tao - Making Friends by the Mediterranean in Turkey - Sunny Days by the Black Sea of Bulgaria (middle)

A letter from Kerrilyn, with whom I have laughed with in Canada, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, and Myanmar. We are planning to travel for five months together through Central and South America later on this year, and plan to one day open up a guesthouse on a little beach somewhere. She's my best friend.

Hello Miss Brennalyn -

Let's just acknowledge that I'm writing to you while both of us are in Canada. The last time we were both in Toronto together was just before you were moving to Japan (in 2008). We were in your mum's apartment overlooking the skyline and treetops, wondering what our new Asian lives would bring us. If only we could have shown ourselves the visits in Osaka - the overeating of cabbage, the shopping in Amemura, the okonomiyaki, the Asahi, the friendship that we nurture and grow with every new adventure.

Could we have told ourselves that we would visit Burma together? That we would make friends, if only for a few hours, with locals so warm and kind they dress up their daughter in gold makeup and a wig? That we would dance the night away to "Barbara Streisand" on the beach in southern Thailand for two nights straight? That we would both make such a consistent effort to keep in contact, despite our distance? That Brennalyn would travel solo all over Asia and India for eight months and send a box of memories to Kerrilyn? That Kerrilyn wears the yak wool scarf from Nepal as she writes? Could we have told ourselves any of these things?

What's in store for us?

Where are our lives going to take us?

Will our dreams of typewriters and hostels and cups of coffee and land on an unknown beach somewhere pan out? I have no doubt.

Love,

Kerrilyn

A New Year, A New Look!

2012-01-08T04:02:00.000-06:00

Goodbye old blog, hello new blog! My very good friend (and very inspirational blogger) Kisha from Chronicled has been working with me for the past month, corresponding through email and gmail chat from India to Canada. And when I say working with me, I mean DOING ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING and dealing with my complete computer/blog ineptitude. She is the most patient, creative, and generous person out there. If you are interested in discussing some blog or website design with her, you can email her at hellokisha@gmail.com.

Anyway, I'm so happy to have this new design (and a new url - no more blogspot.com for me, just a .com now!). It feels like the start of something, something wonderful and exciting. When I figure out what exactly that means, I'll let you know.

A huge thank you to Kisha, and thanks, as always, to my lovely readers. I never expected to have a blog be this big of a part of my life, but it is, and I love it. Thank you for everything.

Love,

Brenna

Ringing (In The New Year, In Chiang Mai, Etc)

2012-01-03T22:45:00.000-06:00

Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai, Thailand

My very lovely travel friends Henry, Aidy, and Ella (who is blogging again over at Ella Goes Abroad, you should check it out!) rode motorbikes from the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai to the temple of Doi Suthep. It was a typically hot day in April, and by the time we got there and then climbed the two-hundred-odd steps to the temple, we were already dripping with sweat.

The place itself was beautiful but full of tourists, like most major temples that are listed on any "must-see" list in Southeast Asia. We spent the afternoon walking around and around, listening to traditional music, watching monks, eating jackfruit, and attempting to take in all of the gold buildings and Buddhas.

Like most days I spend travelling, however, the adventure, the learning, and the laughter all stemmed from the journey, not the destination. Back on our motorbikes, we zoomed down mountain roads, we stopped to chat with locals, we cat-called each other, we relished in our youth and our freedom, not even feeling the heat of the hot sun. I am so grateful to have seen the famous places I have, but more often than not, I'm even more grateful for the good times and the great friends I've made on the way there.

This New Year

2012-01-01T23:30:00.000-06:00

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

New Year's Resolutions:

- finish my travel writing course

- take Spanish lessons (to become fluent by September of 2013)

- travel through Central and South America for at least six months

- take at least one short holiday in the spring (preferably to Cuba or an island in the Caribbean)

- save a lot (a lot) of money

- become a little bit stronger (planning ahead for hiking)

- read at least forty new books

- have a few more travel articles published

- learn how to play my new harmonium

- be single (travel flings excepted)

Any bets on which one I'm going to break first?? And do you have any resolutions?

2011 In Review

2011-12-31T19:01:00.000-06:00

It truly was one of the best years of my life - a year of travel (from January to November), a year of friendship, a year of prospects in love, a year of adventures, a year of loss, and, finally, a year that culminated with me settling in one place, at least for six months. I went to fifteen countries, eleven of them new. Here are a few photos, not month by month, but by experience.

I started the year in Hong Kong and Macau, where I saw many Buddhas (of all shapes and sizes), ate delicious Chinese and Portuguese food, and wondered what on earth was going to happen to me in the following eight months in Southeast Asia and the Subcontinent.

Thailand - temples and monks, delicious street food and cheap beer, friends for life and friends for one night, dirty cities and beautiful beaches, music and dancing and swimming and diving and just about every single hedonistic activity one can imagine.

Myanmar (Burma) - A short but incredible trip. We laughed a lot, learned a lot, and took far too many photos. It is one of my favourite countries.

India - What can be said about India that hasn't been said before? It was everything I had dreamed of and more. The colours and the food and the shopping and that spicy smell in the air; the saris and bindis and bangles and kohl; the people, friendly and warm and so often smiling; the desert and the Taj Mahal, the packed cities and the barren landscape from your train window, the extreme wealth and the extreme poverty. I would go back in a heartbeat.

Nepal - A country that had always topped my Bucket List, a country that did not disappoint. Though my arrival there coincided with the passing of my grandmother, I still had an amazing few weeks hiking in the Himalayas, flying over Mount Everest, meeting some of the sweetest people in the world, shopping for some of my (now) prized possessions, eating far too many spicy dumplings and drinking far too much masala tea, paragliding, going on animal safaris, and doing absolutely nothing but reading for hours on end. I loved it.

Laos - Home to one of my favourite cities, Luang Prabang. It was the calm after the storm of Northern Thailand (and all of its partying). It was great coffee, beautiful scenery, more shopping, more sightseeing, and long bike rides to search for small temples and wandering monks. I absolutely adored Laos and its cities...save Vang Vieng.

Cambodia - Angkor Wat, of course, but also small towns like Kampot and Kep where I ate fresh mangosteens and rode motorbikes and jumped into rivers with phosphorescence. There were pink sunsets and long days spent laughing and sunburns from too many hours on the beach. There were starry eyes and starry nights. I liked Cambodia a lot more than I thought I would.

Australia - A short respite from Asia, it allowed me to visit one of my best friends, Ali. We tasted wine, ate a lot (a lot) of cheese, went to AFL games, drove the Great Ocean Road, saw kangaroos and koalas, watched movies, took photos of graffiti in Melbourne, rode a lot of trams, and drank a lot of delicious coffee. I would like to see more of Australia one day.

South Korea - From Ali in Australia to Kerri in Korea; I was lucky enough to see two of my best friends in their adopted home countries in 2011. Kerri and I basically giggled our way through Seoul for a week, complete with temples and amazing food, shopping for cute stationery, bike rides, long, long talks, movies late at night, and checking out the hippest kids that side of the Pacific.

Singapore - Probably my least favourite stop on my trip, it was still an interesting place, one with influences from all over Asia. I had a Singapore Sling at Raffles, took in the amazing views overlooking the city, and marvelled at the animals in the zoo on the night safari.

Malaysia - As it was my third time in Malaysia, I spent almost all of that time in the Perhentians, relaxing, swimming, dancing, snorkelling, drinking, and loving.

Indonesia - As my last stop in Asia for 2011, it was bittersweet. The month was spent almost entirely on the back of a motorbike or lying on a beach, but there was a lot of sightseeing as well. There was incredible coffee, ridiculously nice people, fields of green, vicious monkeys, misty mountains, scuba diving with sharks, and saying goodbye to Asia for a little while.

Back in North America, I set out on a two-month road trip across America and Canada that started in Hawaii (here with my brother Kitt and sister Zalie).

In those two months I also went to the Burning Man festival in Nevada, a week of mayhem, a week of love, a week of light.

And then - a road trip through 21 states and 3 provinces, weeks on the road filled with Philly cheesesteaks, the beaches of Nantucket, the Statue of Liberty, the fields of Kansas, camping in Kentucky, the St. Louis Arch, the changing leaves in New England, the mountains of Colorado, the desert of Arizona, lobster rolls in Boston, the Las Vegas strip, rainstorms along the Atlantic, and over 6000 kilometres.

It was then into Canada, where a few weeks were spent visiting the CN Tower, Niagara Falls, the old town of Quebec city, shopping in Montreal, poutine and smoked meat and street hot dogs and lots of red wine.

And finally, I arrived in my hometown in Winnipeg, where I shocked even myself with my decision - I'd like to stay here for a while. I decorated the house I had bought earlier this year, became a foster mum to a cat and her five babies, found a fun new job, connected with lots of friends old and new, and spent tons of time with my family.

2011 was a year of really great experiences: scuba diving, hiking in the Himalayas, paragliding, and walking along the edge of the CN Tower, to name a few.

It was also a year of amazing, amazing parties (Songkran and the full and half moon parties of Thailand instantly spring to mind, but there were many more).

It was also a year of wonderful people - my family, of course, but of best friends and travel partners. The travelling I did with Ella, Ali, and Kerri was fabulous, and along the way I met so many others that affected my life in some way, whether lasting or brief, and whether we are in contact or not. I think of Kisha, Trish, Marie-Helene, Henry, Jenny, Mikkel, Aidy, Mert, Kelleigh, Lee, Helen, Russ, Chris, Lena, Lukas, Hannah, Georgia, Harley, Pablo, Mika, Aaron, all of my blog readers, and so many more. I owe it to all of them for a truly outstanding year.

I don't know exactly what 2012 will hold, but I believe I will be in Canada until the end of April; from there, I'll head to Guatemala to study Spanish, and will launch into an eight-month trip through Central and South America. I look forward to many more laughs and many more travels.

Happy New Year, wherever you are and however you are celebrating it!

To see a review of my 2010, click here for Part One and here for Part Two.

Indian Ink And Everything Pink

2011-12-29T23:51:00.000-06:00

India

If my 2011 had a colour, it would have been pink. Bright, vibrant, in-your-face pink. And yours?

For Whatever Reason, Or For Luang Prabang

2011-12-28T23:59:00.000-06:00

Luang Prabang, Laos

Sometimes I have no idea what I am going to write about when I choose the photos for a post - if you are a regular reader, you have probably noticed that my posts are never in any sort of order. I just post whatever I feel like writing, and often I am just drawn to a few photos I have taken for whatever reason, like these photos from Luang Prabang. Perhaps it is because these pictures are so vibrant (like all photos from that beautiful city), and are so rich in colour in comparison to the view outside my window everyday, which is white and snow-covered. I can remember the day I took these photos so clearly; it was such a nice and relaxing day, a day I think of quite often.

As 2011 draw to a close, it's amazing to think of all that I did, of all the people I met. I went to fifteen countries, twenty-one American states and three Canadian provinces. I drank lots of beer and read lots of books and kissed lots of boys. I danced more than I ever danced before and I swam in the ocean almost every day for six months. Basically, it was an amazing year that has been capped off with an incredible month, a month that has brought so much happiness. I'm going to do a photo recap of my year in the next day or two.

There are lot of exciting (at least exciting in my mind) things happening to this blog in the near future, and I can't wait to share it all with you! Stay tuned...

Happy Holidays!

2011-12-25T09:30:00.000-06:00

Christmas and Hanukkah snacks

My sister's boyfriend Tom, my brother Kitt, and my dad (with paper plates for kipas)

Lighting the menora

Christmas Dinner

My mum and I

Christmas presents and stockings with my mum

Me, my mum, my sister Zalie, and my brother Kitt

Hanukkah and Christmas, Winnipeg, Canada

It's the morning of December 25th and I've already had an amazing Hanukkah and Christmas with my lovely family. We've opened many presents, eaten delicious meals of traditional Christmas dinner as well as latkes and falafel, enjoyed plenty of wine, and had many barrels of laughs.

Today is all about even more family celebrations (though I'm sure there will also be lots of laughter, gifts, and wine involved, too); I'm so happy to be in my hometown for this day, with some of my very favourite people.

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah to you and yours, wherever you may be.

Midnight In Paris

2011-12-24T23:12:00.003-06:00

Paris, France

On this Christmas Eve night, we watched Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris and accompanied it with red wine and lots of beautiful cheeses. The movie brought back so many memories of wandering around Paris - I went in 2001, 2006, and 2008, and visited so many of the same spots that are featured in the film.

Call me sentimental, call me romantic, call me trite, but I really, truly do love Paris. It has always been one of my favourite cities, and living there has always been on my wanderlist. I'm quite like Midnight in Paris' main character, Gil, in that I have always had a quixotic view of Paris in the 1920s, one of smoky cafes and jazz clubs, Hemingway and the Fitzgeralds, the wine flowing like water.

I don't imagine I'll be back in Paris until at least 2013 (my plans for 2012 involve almost only the Americas), so for now, I'll satiate my desire to go back by watching the opening scene of the movie over and over again.

Happy Holidays from the Sole Sisters

2011-12-24T02:26:00.003-06:00

Lois and Chichi over at Sole Sisters have created a beautiful and informative e-book on how to plan adventures. I really recommend it; it's a great read for over the holidays! Great job ladies.

Snapshots Of Christmas

2011-12-21T03:00:00.002-06:00

Winnipeg, Canada

(taken with Instagram)

These past few weeks have been all Christmas and Chanukah parties, cupcakes and cookies, hot chocolate and snowfalls, beer with friends and neighbours, decorating the tree and setting up the menorah, wrapping presents and writing cards, and spending lots of time with the special people in my life, old and new. I can't believe there are only four more days until Christmas - I've spent Christmases in London, the Dominican Republic, New Zealand, and Malaysia, but there's nothing like Christmas right at home, with family and snow and that smell of pine needles and baked goods. Are you all ready for Sunday?

To read more about a Christmas I spent abroad, check out Glenfiddich's Explorers page, and type in "Christmas spirit" in their search field.

The Day I Threw A Grenade

2011-12-19T01:39:00.001-06:00

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I threw a grenade on one of my last days in Cambodia. It was something I would have never thought of doing, but the person I was travelling with at the time was very keen to do it. Once I got there, it was one of those when-will-I-ever-do-this-again kind of situations (much like when I shot guns in Latvia), so I decided to just go for it! I was extremely nervous before throwing it but it really did provide an adrenaline rush (despite the relatively small explosion). The "little click" I'm referring to at the end occurs at 45 seconds, which is when the safety was released. Note that my training was simply throwing a rock into the pond...and that I insisted on doing it twice (the first was off-camera).

From that day in May until very recently, I wore the pin from the grenade around my neck, a reminder of my days on the road and of the unexpected events that take place when you travel. Whether it be a dish you've never tried before, a conversation with a stranger, or throwing a grenade into a small Cambodian pond, I always look forward to those little surprises that travel (and life in general) holds in store...if, of course, you are open to them.

By the way, I would like to point out to my mother that yes, I also wish I would have stood up straighter.

And The Winner Is...

2011-12-15T23:18:00.000-06:00

Listvyanka, Russia

I am a little bit tipsy off of a few glasses of wine and a delicious Christmas hot chocolate/Bailey's concoction; I'm currently sitting on the couch with my mum, who is town for the week to celebrate an early Christmas with my brother and sister and I. We are cozy as can be, but I knew I needed to announce the winner of the holiday giveaway before the day was through!

First of all, a huge thank you to everyone who commented! There were so many interesting stories: Christine and her trip to Pittsburgh, Passports and Postcards' visit from a friend in China, Pratyeka's trip to Japan, Veronika's band tour, Chinye and her summer in Florida, Lorra Fae's windy trip to Vancouver, Brittany's train hopping in Hong Kong, AS's wonderful teaching job, Renee's road trips in Bangladesh, Jill's holiday in Oman, Martha's move to Germany, Kristin hiking through the Grand Canyon, Sarah's move to PEI, Sophie's day trips from her hometown, Andi's beautiful wedding in Argentina, Audrey's volunteering in Bolivia, and Jessie finding the path less travelled in Morocco.

There can only be one winner, however. Because all of the answers were so incredible, I asked my mum (pictured above with me) to pick a number between one and seventeen. She picked the number eleven, which happens to be Audrey from That Backpacker! So Audrey, please send me your address so that I can get the package to you right away.

For the rest of you, if you haven't already, please send your address to thisbatteredsuitcase@gmail.com so that I can send you a postcard!

I hope to do another giveaway soon...

Holiday Giveaway Now Closed!

2011-12-14T23:55:00.000-06:00

Valletta, Malta

Thank you to everyone who commented on the holiday giveaway! Your stories were all so wonderful that I've decided to send a postcard to everyone who commented (but one person will still be selected for the holiday package). Please send your address to

thisbatteredsuitcase@gmail.com.

Stay tuned - the winner of the giveaway will be announced tomorrow!

Flowers In Nepal

2011-12-10T21:25:00.001-06:00

Chitwan National Park, Nepal

All of these flowers were found outside my little cabin by the river in Chitwan National Park, Nepal. I stayed there for three days, the only visitor staying in that particular row of cabins. I would sit by the river at sunset on a big wooden bench, drinking Nepali beer and reading old Agatha Christie novels until it was too dark to see. In the mornings, I would wake up early to have breakfast with my guide before we set off to look for wild rhinos, elephants, crocodiles, and, of course, the elusive tiger.

The days were serene and at times lonely, but it was a beautiful park and a good place to reflect after the craziness of India's cities. I've been so busy these past few weeks that sometimes I miss the peacefulness that travel brings, those quiet moments when all you have is a book and a journal, a beer and your thoughts.

Scrimp and Save

2011-12-10T09:37:00.000-06:00

Bangkok, Thailand

I would most likely still be travelling if it weren't for the fact that I am dead broke. One of the reasons I am currently in my hometown is so that I can hunker down and save some money; the goal is to have enough saved by June to travel through Central America and then, depending on whether or not I choose to start school in September in the UK or move to Australia, possibly continue my travels into South America until 2013.

I look back at where I was almost a year ago (these photos were taken in January) and it still all feels like a dream. I worked so hard for two years in Japan to have enough to travel for fourteen months, fourteen months of laughter and beer and best friends and new cultures and too many eye-opening experiences to count. I have been working part-time at a restaurant/bar for the past two weeks and already have saved 5% of my goal. It may not seem like much, but every single loonie counts, and I'm doing my best to follow my own advice. I'm starting full-time after the holiday season, so I have no doubt in my mind that in seven months time I will be scuba diving in Costa Rica, zip lining in Belize, and eating delicious street food in Guatemala.

I've always believed that half the battle is simply deciding to go, to actually go.

Holiday Giveaway

2011-12-09T14:17:00.001-06:00

Osaka, Japan

I meant to do this post at the beginning of the month, but I have been so busy and have been having such a great time that my internet usage has been limited to only a few minutes a day! I haven't even had time to set up my Christmas tree yet, but I hope to do so during the few hours I have free on Sunday, as my mum arrives on Monday to spend a week with my brother, sister, and me. Life is good.

I've decided this year to give a small package to one of the readers of this blog! I have often sent out postcards but, you know, tis the season and all that. I have a few bits and bobs from my travels which I will put together to send out to one person.

To enter the giveaway, please comment here, telling me about your best adventure of 2011. Remember, adventures don't always take place abroad; some of the best adventures I've ever had have taken place in my hometown! Please limit your entry to three sentences.

I will select a winner at random by December 14th, so please check back on the 15th. Hopefully this gives the package enough time to arrive by Christmas/Chanukah/your holiday of choice! I can send to anywhere in the world, so don't be shy.

I'm looking forward to reading your comments!

When You're Strange

2011-12-05T23:20:00.001-06:00

The Himalayas, Nepal

Chitwan National Park, Nepal

Bhaktapur, Nepal

The Himalayas, Nepal

"It is hard to be a stranger. A traveller has no power, no influence, no known identity. That is why a traveller needs optimism and heart, because without confidence travel is misery. Generally, the traveller is anonymous, ignorant, easy to deceive, at the mercy of the people he or she travels among. The traveller might be known as 'the American' or 'the Foreigner', and there is no power in that.

A traveller is often conspicuous, and consequently is vulnerable. But in my travelling, I whistled in the dark and assumed all would be well. I depended on people being civil and observing a few basic rules. I did not expect preferential treatment."

-Paul Theroux

The Tao of Travel

I started travelling on my own six years ago, when I was 21. In all those years, and in over 60 countries, I have had only a few negative experiences with the people I've met along the way. I like this quote by Theroux, because I feel the same: I assume all will be well, and I try to always travel with confidence, trust, and optimism. I believe that people are inherently good, and that most people will try to help you and make your visit to their country a happy one.

What do you think? Are you a trusting traveller or do you feel wary in a new place?

The Colours Of Jaipur

2011-12-04T20:53:00.001-06:00

Jaipur, India

The temperature in Winnipeg tonight is heading down to -35°C with the windchill. I had forgotten how cold it gets here, how cold the first 18 winters of my life were. As frigid as it is, there is something so satisfying about being indoors with a mug of hot chocolate, six kittens, a good book, and a view of the falling snowflakes out my window.

On days like these, when it is chilly and blanketed with white snow, I like to look at photos of my most recent overseas trip, the one that had months and months of sunshine and colours ranging from marigold to magenta to majorelle blue. Perhaps there is no country more colourful than India, and it is often images of India that I am drawn to first.

Though I'm definitely not in India anymore, recently my life has, in many ways, been just as colourful. I've started thinking about a trip to Central America next summer, started researching cultural studies programs in the UK, and been ridiculously busy with my friends and family. There are multiple Skype dates with people far away and multiple wine dates with people close by.

I remember arriving in Jaipur one unusually warm day in March, still totally entranced by all that India offered by way of sights and sounds, smells and tastes. I can remember climbing up that long path to the top of the fort, lumbering alongside painted elephants with pink toenails and sad eyes. I remember laughing with my travel partners, spinning in circles through the majestic white arches and being completely lost in that one moment, that only moment I knew. And I love that I have those memories on these kinds of nights, these cold and wintry nights. I love that I know I'll make so many more of those same memories, wherever the future takes me.

Remembering Oslo

2011-11-30T23:56:00.000-06:00

Oslo, Norway

I just got back from picking up my little brother from the airport this evening; he was in Europe for two months, travelling through some of my favourite cities with his girlfriend. Barcelona, Lisbon, Berlin, Prague, Budapest, Amsterdam...just the mention of these cities incites a sense of excitement in me, an overwhelming urge to return. Even though Kitt and I only had a bit of time to discuss his trip while in the car, in that short time we were able to share stories of those cities, those streets, those cultures.

I was in Norway in 2006, spending a few beautiful midsummer days and nights there. I had a travel romance with a young man I had met on a the overnight boat from Copenhagen to Oslo; we had stayed up all night talking and kissed as the sun rose, promising to meet up the next day. That chance encounter led to four days of picnics in the park, wandering through the Ibsen museum, sampling the street food, and feeding birds by a local pond. I marvelled at the fact that it was only dark for a few hours every night.

There are so many cities I could happily revisit, Oslo being one of them. There is something to be said for seeing a city again through different eyes, whether those eyes be older, or wiser, or simply looking in a different direction. My days in Canada have been incredibly busy, with a new job and new friends and a new house and a new outlook on my future; I'm seeing it all, I'm loving it all. Perhaps I just needed to look in a different direction.

The End Of The Road

2011-11-28T10:52:00.001-06:00

The Perhentians, Malaysia

As a traveller, one gets used to bumps in the road, to detours that you must cross. You are so often thrown in to strange and difficult situations, so often presented with something you don't quite know how to handle, but I am so thankful for the skills that I have accumulated that help me deal with those times of uncertainty or discomfort. A night train in India full of leering strangers? The ferry to Morocco is cancelled? A group of Cambodian tuk-tuk drivers surround you and demand money? These are the things you learn to overcome, to handle in the best way possible and to not let it affect your future adventures.

It's the same, then, when someone close to you totally disappoints you; you learn how to pick yourself up and keep on going, keep your head clear and your heart still focused on the journey. Unfortunately, my travel partner and boyfriend of the past seven months has decided that his journey is over, while I feel like mine is (as always) just beginning. You will still probably see photos and videos of him, as we travelled together non-stop for nearly seven months, through seven countries and twenty-three states and provinces. I really wish that we could have travelled together again, but some people are not cut out for a life like this, one where we are sometimes together every moment of every day and sometimes not together at all. We were only apart for twelve days.

I feel that a necessary trait of any serious traveller is to always look at the bright side of any situation. There is almost always a silver lining, if you only know how to look for it. For me, my silver lining is more travel, more wandering, and less waiting for someone else. Sure, I'm still dreaming of moving to Australia and working on a ranch...but now I'm thinking of other things, too. I'm thinking of working on a cruise ship, or finally looking into getting my Master's degree in Europe, or travelling through South America much sooner than I had previously thought. I've said it before, and I'll say it again: the world is my oyster, and I feel like I've found the most beautiful pearl. Life is here for the taking, and I'm ready to take it all.

Stop Signs and New Computers

2011-11-25T21:11:00.001-06:00

Maui, Hawaii

Istanbul, Turkey

Marrakesh, Morocco

I got a new computer last week, a MacBook Pro with 750 GB of storage. What this means for me is that I can finally, finally, have all of my travel photos on one system. No "Those photos are on that computer and those photos are on that hard drive and OH NO where are the photos from Slovenia?" dilemmas anymore. I hope this means I'll have more themed posts (for example, Stop Signs Around the World) and more posts using pictures and stories from the past. It's so nice to see all of my travel photos and videos in one place...all 47,554 of them.

Travelling Through Southeast Asia (by video)

2011-11-23T11:59:00.000-06:00

Travelling Through Southeast Asia (Part One)

All videos were shot with my Superheadz Harinezumi camera; I took these in my first few months on the road earlier this year, in Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand, and Burma. This was my first attempt at a video like this, but I hope to be making more in the future!

Dreaming Of Cape Cod

2011-11-21T00:40:00.001-06:00

Provincetown, Cape Cod, USA 

Yesterday the weather was -16°C in Winnipeg; I had sort of forgotten how cold it gets here, and how life continues despite that cold. We still do errands and see friends and do yardwork, it's just that we are all bundled up while we do these things, and that we require a hot chocolate immediately upon coming home (or maybe that's just me). The house feels especially cold now that Aaron left to go back to the states, and his departure signified my travels really being over for the time being. Reality is sinking in, and it's sometimes a difficult pill to swallow.

To shake the post-travelling blues and to remind myself of warmer days, I think of some of the beautiful places I visited in the last fourteen months, some of the places I had dreamed of visiting since I was a little girl. I had always wanted to go to Cape Cod, and so it was a wonderful coincidence that Aaron's mum is currently living there and could host us while we travelled across America and Canada on our road trip.

In Cape Cod we spent our days on beaches, among old wooden boats and sea creatures. We ate breakfast when the sun came up, planning activities around the weather. I read books and went for bike rides. We found lighthouses and stores that sold the perfect nautical antiques. It was exactly what you would expect from Cape Cod, and it was one of my favourite locations on our journey.

I miss those days in New England.

Glenfiddich Explorers: 7 Reasons To Visit Mongolia

2011-11-17T23:08:00.001-06:00

Mongolia

A month or so ago, I was asked by Glenfiddich Explorers to become one of their travel "experts". It's a great site that showcases different countries and different adventures. My first assignment was to write seven reasons to visit Mongolia; the difficult part was limiting it to only seven! Here are the reasons I came up with:

1. Wide Open Spaces: For those who like the serenity of miles of unpopulated land, surrounded by endless skies and open plains, the steppes of Outer Mongolia are paradise. It is a place where you can clear your thoughts. Often the only other sign of life is an occasional herd of wild ponies. You won’t find the bustle of a major city here, only the uninterrupted view of the blue sky meeting the yellow earth. 

2. Sleeping in Gers: A ger, typically a white felt structure, more commonly known as a yurt in Central Asia, will most likely be your home if you decide to sleep on the steppes of Mongolia. Fuelled by wood or dung, the iron stove in the middle of the ger will assume great importance. Stoking the fire becomes second nature, especially after your first frigid night. Fall asleep to the distant howling of wolves and the crackling of the fire. 

3. Riding Horses: A must for any trip to Mongolia, riding horses through the wooded paths of Terelj National Park is accessible for all, whether one is an experienced rider or not. Horse racing is one of the national sports, and seeing a local herdsman gallop bareback across the plains is truly a sight to behold. An additional treat for the adventurous is a ride on a Bactrian camel; nestled snugly between its two humps, the ride is surprisingly smooth…once you’re up. 

4. Mongolian Cuisine: If you are lucky enough to find yourself in a Mongolian home, you may be offered a snack of airag – fermented mare’s milk – and aaruul, a curd made of yak or camel milk. Although dry and hard at first, aaruul soon tastes sweeter as it softens in between sips of airag. This appetizer is a fine start to the main course of mutton that usually follows. 

5. The Mongolian People: The most sparsely populated independent country in the world, Mongolia is home to approximately 2.75 million people. Friendly and open, Mongolian people are more than willing to help visitors. You will be greeted with a smile everywhere you go, and instantly be made to feel welcome, comfortable, and safe. With a rich background that includes the rise and fall of Genghis Khan’s empire, the people are patriotic and eager to share their history. 

6. Sukhbaatar Square: If you visit Mongolia’s capital city of Ulaanbaatar, you will inevitably find yourself in Sukhbaatar Square, home to the Government Palace. Statues of significance include Genghis Khan and Damdin Sukhbaatar, leader of Mongolia’s 1921 revolution that was a major step in the country’s independence. The square is still a site for cultural and political events and offers many great photo opportunities. 

7. The Trans-Mongolian: Snaking its way across the country, the Trans-Mongolian railway connects travellers between China and Russia, and is an amazing way to see the countryside and interact with local people. You’ll lose yourself gazing out the window at the expanse of open country dotted with the occasional white ger. The only time the hours drag is when entering or leaving Mongolia; border crossings are notoriously slow, but take the opportunity to get to know your neighbour, as they may have some aaruul to share. 

If you have a chance, you should check out Glenfiddich's site. Once you get past the log-in page (entering your location and age is enough), you can look at dozens of other contributions by other travellers. If you'd like to see my contribution, search for either "Mongolia" or "Brenna" in the right hand corner. 

I'm writing a new piece for them on the history of sumo wrestling in Japan, so look for that soon, too!

Sleepy Days In The Gili Islands

2011-11-15T22:38:00.001-06:00

Gili Trawangan, Indonesia 

Aaron and I took an uncomfortable van ride from Ubud to the coast of Bali, then a long boat ride from the island of Bali to Lombok, then an uncomfortable van ride to a small beach on Lombok (there were so many uncomfortable van rides in Indonesia), and then finally a small boat to the island of Gili Trawangan. I had heard so many good things about the Gili Islands: they were relaxing, they were great for diving, they had beautiful beaches. I had already been travelling for ten months at this point, and the Gilis would be my final stop in Asia. With ten days planned there, and with my favourite travelling buddy by my side, I knew that I would be in paradise no matter what.

I look at those last ten days of my adventure in Asia as a very reflective and quiet time; we didn't party and we barely even spent a lot of time on the beach. It was mostly about spending time together, enjoying delicious food, reading, riding rented bicycles, watching movies, getting to know each other better before we had to say a temporary goodbye. Every morning we'd wake at 9, have breakfast at our quaint hotel, sit and read for a few hours on the patio, then wander into town for a little bit of shopping or wandering or snacking. Before we even knew it, the sun would be setting, and we'd head back to take a salt-water shower (there's no fresh water on the island) and get ready to go out for dinner. We had made friends with some of the servers at certain restaurants and they would graciously reserve the best tables for us, so we could eat fresh barbecued fish while watching the moon and the waves and the blinking lights of faraway boats. We'd buy cheap bottles of whiskey and sit under the stars forever, telling secrets, sharing memories, kissing, laughing.

The Gilis also held true to their reputation of having great dive spots, and it was there that I got my Advanced Open Water certification. But before I knew it, the ten days were up, and it was time to take the long journey back to Bali, where I'd catch a flight to Bangkok and then to Canada. I had been planning to visit the Gilis at the start of my trip, but I'm glad I saved it for the end. It was all very serendipitous that Aaron and I had similar paths set out when we met, and though I preferred the Perhentians of Malaysia over the Gilis, I know that the little Indonesian islands will always hold a special place in my heart.

Pets For Travellers

2011-11-12T23:58:00.000-06:00

Some exciting news in my life - I just became a foster owner of a cat and her five kittens! The kittens are only three weeks old; both mother and babies were found last week and brought to a shelter. I'm looking after them for the next two months, and already they are the sweetest, cutest little things I've ever seen, each one with its own personality. They are named Priya, Rose, Lee, Calzone (pictured above), Yuna, and Yuki (I didn't name them), and I will post more photos when I can get all of them to sit still!

This may not seem travel-related, but it very much is; one of the few things I bemoan about a life on the road is that I cannot own pets. For those who cannot commit to owning an animal, fostering is a great way to both enjoy the company of a pet and to help out animals in need. There are literally thousands of pets without homes in my city alone, so if you are able to open your home (temporary or not) for a few weeks or months, I encourage you to do so. Animals typically placed in foster homes are new or abandoned kittens and puppies, nursing mothers and their young, injured or sick animals that need some TLC, and animals that may need a bit of socialization. 

Just to stress how in need shelters are, I dropped off my application today and in one hour had a phone call asking for help, and I had multiple animals to choose from. I am fostering for The Humane Society, which provides all supplies needed, including food, litter, blankets, a kennel, a bed, toys, bowls, and more.

I'm planning to travel again next spring, but until then, I'll be fostering as many animals as I can. 

Words Of Wisdom

2011-11-11T03:00:00.000-06:00

Looking Out Over Lake Baikal

Listvyanka, Russia

"Qualifications for a Traveller. - If you have health, a great craving for adventure, at least a moderate fortune, and can set your heart on a definite object, which old travellers do not think impracticable, then - travel by all means. [...] I believe that no career, in time of peace, can offer to you more advantages than that of a traveller. If you have not independent means, you may still turn travelling to excellent account; for experience shows it often leads to promotion, nay, some men support themselves by travel. They explore pasture land in Australia, [...] they collect specimens of natural history for sale, or they wander as artists."

-Sir Francis Galton (1822-1911), an explorer, scientist, cartographer, and lover of travel literature

Rickshaws Of Varanasi

2011-11-09T21:56:00.002-06:00

View From A Rickshaw

Varanasi, India

I suppose I should never, ever complain about traffic in Canada again. 

Home For A While (Part Three)

2011-11-08T22:18:00.001-06:00

Winnipeg, Canada

These are the last of the photos from my new home, I promise. This time it's the upstairs, with my bathroom, guest bedroom/office, and bedroom. I'm still amazed that I managed to put this all together in only a week, though the office will be an ongoing endeavor; it will be a good place to do some writing, though, once I start my online course (more on that soon). 

One thing I didn't mention in other posts about my new house was that the previous owners left some furniture behind. I was definitely happy to have a dining room table, desk, and futon already here, but it did mean that we had to decorate accordingly. They also left me with some very bright blue laminate in the bathroom which I was initially not too happy about, but I think the room came together in the end. I'm also so happy to finally have all of my paintings around the house: another Mexican one in the hallway, two prints from St. Petersburg's Hermitage in the bathroom, three small paintings done by Cambodian children in the bedroom and bathroom, and the Vietnamese paintings I bought in Hoi An two years ago and only now had dry-mounted. All of my bedding and pillows are from India, and my possibly-creepy-but-very-much-loved yak skull from Nepal is prominently placed in my bedroom (if I start having nightmares I will let you know). I have also decided to display some of the clothing, shoes, and jewelery I bought in other countries, as otherwise they just hide in closets or drawers. I especially love the huge necklace I bought in Laos on my birthday that hangs in my bedroom.

So that's it, that's my house. Of course, it's only home for a little while; I think I will only be here for another four or five months, and then I will rent it out and go and traipse around the world for a while. My new goal is to save enough for a plane ticket that will take me to another continent and just enough to keep me fed and housed for a few weeks - the prospect of working abroad again has filled my brain with the usual excitement and wanderlust. I'm asking myself those familiar questions again: where? when? for how long? to do what? I will have a long and cold winter to contemplate these questions, but at least I will have a cozy house to do it in.

For my living and dining rooms, click here. For the kitchen, front room and front hall, click here.

Home For A While (Part Two)

2011-11-06T23:55:00.000-06:00

Winnipeg, Canada

 It's been another lazy weekend, as Aaron is still in town and I'm not starting work until mid-month. We don't do much: watch movies, play video games, cook, go for drives, go to the museum, run errands, make some crafts (we even have a head-start on Christmas gifts!), read, nap, just enjoy each other's company. I will really miss him when he's gone. Tonight we had my very good friend Rikki over to watch Walking Dead and eat nachos, so one could say it was an excellent Sunday night. I'll be heading to a craft sale in a few weeks to check out her amazing jewelery and other local wares; for now, you can look at her stuff on etsy. I have one of her spoon necklaces and it is the kind of thing that gets endless compliments, it is so unique and beautiful. 

Speaking of staying in, these photos show my kitchen, front hall, and front room in my new house; perhaps it seems a bit silly to post these on a travel blog, but I spent so long putting this house together (well, only a week, but it was a looooong week). It's also nice to show a few of the purchases I've perhaps talked about on this blog: paintings from Laos, Canada, France, Lithuania, and Russia, a print from Korea, masks from Sri Lanka, the Philippines, Borneo, Korea, Japan, Indonesia, and Thailand, my collection of antique cameras, the Indonesian Buddha head I searched all over Ubud for, all of the religious icons/items I've collected (mostly from Mexico and Russia), and, of course, more books. When I think about all the trouble I went through to get these things home, I am so thankful that they all made it here safely and that I can now look at them every day. For example, throughout my journey on the Trans-Siberian last year, I tried to collect religious icons from each city I stopped in. I also collected a few antique cameras, one from Irkutsk and one from St. Petersburg. Many travellers would scoff at this; many experienced wanderers champion the "travel light" theory. I often secretly bemoan my heavy bag, pretending its weight doesn't bother me while other backpackers or travellers carry bags they can lift with one finger. For me, however, as long as I don't have to pay extra on a flight, and as long as I can find cheap items, I like to indulge in shopping in different countries; as I've mentioned before, I love spending the day in a market, bartering with shopkeepers for everything from jewelery to spices to the items shown above. I've also spent a lot of time and a fair bit of money sending things home, but I have had every single box make it to me, whether it be from Thailand, Norway, or India. I've heard horror stories, of course, but I've had nothing but luck when it comes to mailing things home. 

I know this may sound materialistic, but I prefer to think of it as sentimental; it's something fun I like to do when I have enough time and money while travelling and I love having these momentos from the places I've been. What about you? Do you like to shop when you travel? If so, do you carry your purchases with you or send them home?

See my living room and dining room here.

Home For A While (Part One)

2011-11-04T18:20:00.000-05:00

Winnipeg, Canada 

I apologize that these photos are a bit dark; I always prefer my homes at night, with candles and lamps lit. These photos are just of my living room and dining room, and I'll post photos of the rest of the house over the weekend. In these rooms I have some of my favourite things: framed Tibetan prints I bought in Nepal, Burmese Buddhas (one wood and one bronze), Buddha hands from Laos, my collection of matryoshka dolls from Russia and Eastern Europe, framed Indian prints, Nepalese dolls, Indian pillows and tapestries, Moroccan daggers, the small silver ornaments I collected around Europe, a Thai puppet, an Indonesian puppet, my antique typewriter, a Japanese print and obi, a painting a friend gave me in Mexico, and, of course, tons of books, records, and other trinkets from my travels. I still can't believe Aaron and I set up the entire house (including purchasing everything we didn't already have, setting up all the furniture, unpacking boxes, and decorating) in only one week.

I haven't seen a lot of my belongings for years, so it feels amazing to have all of these things from my travels together at last, to be in a home that really, truly feels like home. I don't particularly like the fact that I am living in my hometown, but I know it is only temporary. For now, I'll just appreciate having such a cozy place to stay.

For comparison, here are a few shots from some of my homes in the past, including Toronto and Osaka.

Korean Stereotypes

2011-11-04T13:09:00.000-05:00

Korean Stereotypes

by expatkerri

My best friend Kerri continues to inspire me and amaze me. I love her new video!

For All The Love In Luang Prabang

2011-11-02T23:30:00.000-05:00

Luang Prabang, Laos

 I'll admit, it was excruciating getting up at such an early hour - 4:30am to be precise. I had woken up this early to give alms to the monks, as people do every morning in Luang Prabang. After handing out rice to the passing monks in their orange robes, I took the long way back to my guesthouse, wandering through a small series of alleyways. I had walked through these alleys before, albeit in the afternoons and evenings, and at those times they were filled with a few food stalls and not much else. In the early morning, however, they were absolutely bustling, filled with makeshift stands selling just about everything one could possibly need for a freshly stocked kitchen: eggs, tomatoes, spices, chicken, rambutans, bananas, rice, you name it. There were also a few ingredients I shied away from, including live frogs (with bloodied legs tied together), large and very menacing-looking turkeys, buckets of writhing fish, and plastic bags filled with blood. 

If you have been reading my blog for a little while, you'll know that I love markets; they are places to watch the city come alive, places to watch the local people live their lives and go about day-to-day activities. Too often when we travel, we can get caught up with trying to see too much, trying to fit in all of the things our guidebooks tell us to do. We can forget that the cities and towns we visit are thriving and full of life, whether or not we are there to sight-see and take photos. This is why I always try to spend a few days in each place I go just wandering around, without plan or purpose. I try to see what it would be like to be a resident. I try to imagine what it would be like to visit these markets, to pick up my fresh produce and fish, to chat with the same people each time. I love experiencing these moments in new places.

Luang Prabang was the perfect medley of reality and tourism for me; I could feel like a local or feel like a visitor whenever I chose. I spent a few days doing all of the sightseeing I could, visiting temples, museums, galleries, and recommended restaurants. I also spent a few days doing very little, sitting in coffeeshops and bakeries, riding my rented bicycle around, shopping in the night market, and trying new foods in the previously mentioned stalls. For this, it is one of my favourite cities in Asia. What I also love about Luang Prabang is that Aaron and I can share memories of it, even though we barely knew each other then and didn't spend any of our time there together; we had met in northern Thailand but didn't start travelling together for another three weeks. Tonight, while we opened up yet another bottle of red wine and started to prepare a warm beet and feta salad (yes, it was delicious), we began reminiscing about the times we bumped into each other there. We shared stories of the local people we met (separately), the times we got lost (separately), and when we finally crossed paths at Utopia and The Hive, two popular bars in town. I can remember so clearly riding my bicycle home one night (the night before my birthday, to be exact), and bumping into him, chatting for a few minutes about monks, beer, and anything else that popped into our heads.

That was over six months ago. From bumping into each other on the streets of Laos to sitting together on my couch in Canada, drinking wine and watching TV, I'm glad to have him by my side.

Kit Kats (Part Three)

2011-10-30T21:04:00.000-05:00

Raspberry and Passionfruit

Crème brûlée

Milk Coffee

Super Cleaning Strawberry (?)

Sweet Potato

Some Sort Of Weird Bun That I Always Forget

Osaka, Japan

Just a few more of the crazy Kit Kats I collected while I lived in Japan; you can see part one here and part two here!

I bought some mini chocolate bars yesterday in preparation for trick-or-treaters; tomorrow Aaron and I will finally carve our pumpkins (better late than never). It's kind of odd, doing all of these domestic things: cooking, baking, raking leaves, sorting recycling, laundry, dishes, all the normal stuff. The truth is, though, I really haven't done a lot of these things in the past year or so of my life what with the travelling and the inevitable hotels and restaurants. I've also never lived in my own house before, only apartments, so it's actually kind of nice to take care of everything.

Here's hoping the kids don't mind normal Kit Kats tomorrow!

Open The Door

2011-10-29T23:20:00.000-05:00

Jaisalmer, India

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Ubud, Indonesia

Luang Prabang, Laos

Varanasi, India

Kathmandu, Nepal

"In oneself lies the whole world and if you know how to look and learn, the door is there and the key is in your hand. Nobody on earth can give you either the key or the door to open, except yourself."

-Jiddu Krishnamurti 

Have A Good Burn

2011-10-27T22:38:00.000-05:00

Burning Man 2011

Black Rock Desert, Nevada

What can I say about Burning Man that hasn't been said before? For those who don't know, Burning Man is a festival held in Black Rock Desert of Nevada every year, and it has been going on for 25 years. Once a small festival, it now hosts 50 000 people a year, selling out for the first time ever in 2011. One of its many ideas is that you must bring everything you need to survive for one week in the desert, and you must leave nothing behind; this leads to cars and trucks and trailers packed to the hilt with food, water, tents, bicycles, and, of course, art and costumes.

Burning Man was an incredible week, one filled with emotion. It was elaborate and fun costumes, beautiful and creative artwork, hot days and freezing nights, kind and generous people, music and dance, and dust, dust, dust. We camped with thousands of others, trying to sleep during the hot afternoons to prepare for nights of mayhem, of running around, laughing, dancing, meeting new people, jumping on art cars, and attempting to take all of the festival's magic in. It was a once in a lifetime experience, and I truly hope to return one day.

The Tao of Travel (Books)

2011-10-26T22:04:00.001-05:00

"All my life I have been asked the maddening and oversimplifying question, 'What is your favourite travel book?' How to answer it? [...] The travel narrative is the oldest in the world, the story the wanderer tells to the folk gathered around the fire after his or her return from a journey. 'This is what I saw' - news from the wider world; the odd, the strange, the shocking, tales of beasts or of other people. [...] The storyteller's intention is always to hold the listener with a glittering eye and riveting tale. [...] Most are anecdotal, amusing, instructional, farcical, boastful, mock-heroic, occasionally hair-raising, warnings to the curious, or else they ring bells like mad and seem familiar. At their best, they are examples of what is most human in travel."

-Paul Theroux, The Tao of Travel

Well, Mr. Theroux would hate me, but I would like to ask: what is one of your favourite travel books? I'm currently reading Chuck Thompson's Smile When You're Lying (after loving To Hellholes and back) and J. Maartan Troost's The Sex Lives of Cannibals; I have also been buying The Best American Travel Writing series whenever I find them on sale. I've been trying to get into more travel writing lately, so can you recommend a book I simply must read?

Streets Of Seoul

2011-10-25T23:30:00.000-05:00

Seoul, South Korea

There are things that I simply cannot find in a small, cold, Canadian city. For example, I can't find an area that covers kilometres of streets filled with little art cafes, galleries, unique shops and open markets, much like the amazing Samcheongdong neighbourhood in Seoul. I think that one of the reasons I can picture myself permanently settling down in either Europe or Asia is because of those continents' abundance of areas like that, areas where I could spend the day wandering, buying fresh produce, stopping in a coffeeshop, and meeting up with my best friend to pick out yet another cute dress.

A Journey To Amritsar

2011-10-24T23:15:00.001-05:00

Amritsar, India

And now, the road trip is over. We covered twenty states, three provinces, and nearly nine thousand kilometres. We're currently in my hometown, where I'll stay for a few months. Although I'm now in the coldest city in Canada at the very beginning of winter, I think it will be beneficial for me to stay in one place for longer than a few weeks; since last September I have been steadily moving, visiting eighteen countries and countless cities. I can't even imagine how many different hotel beds and friends' guest rooms I've slept in, how many restaurants I've tried, how many hours I spent looking out the windows of a train or bus or airplane. It's been an exhilarating thirteen months, but it's time to slow down, time to study, work, and settle. I will also be able to spend much more time on this blog, which I haven't had time to do recently.

While I was in India, I made the decision to purchase a small house in my hometown - it was a great deal and I know that it will be an important asset down the line. It also means that I have this house to live in for the next few months, so we've spent the last week building furniture, raking leaves, cooking, and decorating, trying to make this place a home. It finally feels like one, one filled with Indian tapestries, Burmese Buddhas, Indonesian masks, and oodles of books. Opening all the boxes I sent home over the past year has been so much fun, and it reminds me of all the amazing times I had, all the markets I shopped in and the shopkeepers I bartered with. When I think of markets, I immediately think of India, of streets filled with shops selling anything and everything you would want: bangles, spices, saris, tapestries, paintings, silver, cameras, books, and more. I miss those markets, and I can't wait for the day when I can return to India, ready once again with an open mind (and an open wallet).

A Glimpse Of Burning Man

2011-10-15T12:30:00.000-05:00

"Playa Time: Dust to Dust" by Meawoppl  

Black Rock Desert, Nevada, USA

As you may know, I spent eight days at the Burning Man festival in Nevada this summer. It was one of the most intense and exhilarating weeks of my life, and perhaps this short video can slightly explain why.

Walking On The Edge

2011-10-13T21:30:00.001-05:00

Toronto, Canada

Once again, I feel so blessed to have had yet another amazing experience while travelling - this time it was the Edge Walk on Toronto's CN Tower! We walked along the edge of the famous structure, 116 stories up, with no railing whatsoever; the views were quite incredible. It was a little bit unnerving for the first minute or so, but after our first "trick" (leaning off of the edge backwards) we felt quite at ease. I love having the kind of people in my life who are so adventurous and courageous and fun. I know I'm a lucky, lucky person.

Open Skies And Open Roads

2011-10-10T21:31:00.000-05:00

Isle of Skye, Scotland

My endless apologies for a complete lack of posts lately; between road-tripping across America and Canada, trying to completely furnish and decorate a house from afar, making it to Toronto in time to have Thanksgiving dinner with my mum, and showing my boyfriend around Quebec and Ontario, I've been quite busy lately.

So far, our road trip has been wonderful, filled with stops to see family scattered along the east coast. We've travelled across nineteen states and two provinces so far, with one more province to go - we've camped in the woods of Kansas, stayed in a Motel 6 in Kentucky, eaten Philly cheese steaks in Pittsburgh, ran through seagulls on the beaches of Cape Cod, supped on lobster rolls in Boston, rode bicycles on Nantucket, walked around the old city of Quebec, devoured poutine in Montreal, and relaxed with beer and friends in Toronto. I always love road trips for these reasons, though, for great food and great company and stretches of empty road ahead of us. 

It's strange to think that I don't have a big trip being planned at the moment, as I almost always do. I know I'll be in Colorado again soon, and perhaps even Alabama, California, Arizona, or Florida. After a few months of settling, working, and studying, I hope to be taking off for another year adventure, but to where, and to do what, I don't really know. 

But for this ambiguity, I am thankful. It was this lack of a plan that allowed me to travel so much for the past six years, allowed me to be spontaneous. I am thankful for that, and I am thankful for so many things: for my beautiful family, for my hilarious and interesting friends, for the ability to see the world, for all of the people who have helped in my travels along the way, for all of the incredible comforts I have in my life, and for Aaron. 

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, Canadian or not.

Underwater Paradise

2011-09-30T21:02:00.000-05:00

Gili Trawangan, Indonesia

There are days when all I can think about is scuba diving. It pains me to think I won't be able to dive for the next few wintry months.

The Streets Of Yangon (Part Two)

2011-09-29T14:04:00.000-05:00

Yangon, Myanmar

On this particular day in February, I set out to explore the streets of Yangon with three other travellers: Kerri, my Canadian best friend, Uros, a Serbian we had met in our hotel, and an Austrian woman whose name has now slipped my mind (this is what happens when you travel a lot and meet people every day).

We walked for hours, stopping to drink sugar cane juice, to play with the snakes for sale on the sidewalk, to eat delicious Indian food in a small and sweaty shop, to talk to schoolkids who wanted to practice English, to taste strange fruits that vendors offered us for free. We marvelled at anything and everything, our senses wide open for discovering. It felt so good to walk, to follow no set path and to just see what would happen; as most travellers would attest, this is one of the greatest feelings, the feeling of pure and simple exploration, the guidebook and maps tucked away (until you have to find your way home, of course).

We ended up at the Shwedagon Paya, a beautiful golden temple that is one of the highlights of any trip to Myanmar. Sitting there with a great group of people, watching the sun set over the city, and reflecting on the events of the day, I remember feeling absolute serenity, absolute satisfaction at another day well travelled.

For more photos from that day, please click here.

The Streets Of Yangon (Part One)

2011-09-27T17:49:00.000-05:00

Yangon, Myanmar

The streets of Yangon, formerly Rangoon, were bustling, full of vendors selling eggs, freshly dyed clothing, gold jewelry, live snakes, sugar cane juice, tobacco, velvet slippers, vegetables, toys, mirrors, maps, books, goldfish, tea - almost anything you could imagine. Men (and only men) rode by on bicycles, their traditional lungi flapping in the wind. Women walked with great ease with large packages on their heads, weaving in and out of the crowds of others shopping, strolling, and chatting. Kids in school uniforms laughed and waited for the bus, enjoying the beginnings of spring. And everywhere we went, we saw smiles, we shook hands, we were embraced and welcomed moreso than I had been in any other country. For all that its people have been through, Myanmar was a place of kindness, generosity, and peace.

I would love to go back.